Bass Landing - Strategy Guide (Page 02)

Below are the cheat codes, hints and help for Bass Landing - Strategy Guide (Page 02).

Metal jig (0.8 oz): a very heavy lure that doesn't work too well (at least
in my experience).  It supposedly works best in deep waters with the lift
and fall technique...but it's not as easy to catch a fish using this lure.

SECTION 6: Fish types and information
-------------------------------------

Bass landing has many different types of fish you can catch.  14 different
types to be exact (4 types of bass, 10 other types).  Each lake is stocked
with certain fish types.

6.1 Lake information
--------------------

Each lake's special features are listed with any hazards marked by an
asterisk.  In future updates, this section will expand to list the best
places to fish and best weather conditions to fish in.  Since most every
lake has piers, boat docks and bridges, I left these out of the 'points of
interest' but they can be good places to try fishing as well.  I tried to
focus on the unique features of each lake.

6.1.1 Lunker lake specifics
---------------------------

The first lake in the real game, and the first lake most of us fish on;
Lunker lake has many interesting features and is quite deep in the middle.
Since no fish are below 49 ft. in the game, you should only look to the
deeper waters if the season is cold and the fish are hibernating in deeper
waters.

Fish types: Largemouth bass, Spotted bass, Florida bass, Rainbow trout,
Blue gill, Catfish, Snake Head, Carp, Lake Biwa Trout, Silver Carp

Special points of interest: Shrine gate, Sluice Tower, dead trees, two
islands with tree overhangs, fish nursery (netted area), various lake
inlets, dam/floodgate.

The Japanese looking shrine gate at the northern end of the lake provides
some fairly deep water to fish in.  The most notable thing here is that
the posts attract insects which in turn attracts bass.

There are two sluice towers (they look like metal cages protruding out of
the water) which also attract bass.  *Line tangling hazard.

Just north of the pagoda is an area of dead trees near the shore.  It
attracts insects and fish much the way any poles do.  The water here is
also fairly deep.   *Line tangling hazard.

The two islands in the center of the NE section of the lake provide good
places to fish during hot seasons, and nearby rocks to fish near in cold
seasons.  A very good place to start out.

The Fish nursery is at the easternmost point on the lake map.  It consists
mostly of a long stretch of netting with poles in spots to hold it up.
While you can fish inside the netted area, you won't be able to land the
fish no matter what bites the line.  This pretty much applies to any time
your fishing line has gone OVER an obstacle.  It's safest to just fish
around the nursery and take care that any fish you hook don't get off the
line by wrapping the line around an obstacle.  *Mild line tangling hazard.

All along the southern part of the lake are various inlets (Places where
water enters the lake from other sources).  This is prime real estate for
fishing since smaller 'bait fish' get washed down the inlet to the lake
where the bass are usually waiting to gobble them up.  If you want to fish
IN the inlet, you'll likely need to use the sidehand or skipping cast
here.

The southernmost tip of the lake has the dam/floodgate.  Fishing around
here can be very good due to the depth of the water.  This varies mostly
according to season.  It's worth a look if you've tried fishing in the
other places.

6.1.2 Crystal lake specifics
----------------------------

The only lake containing smallmouth bass.  There's not a whole lot of
interesting places to fish, but it's a very wide-open lake with plenty of
good fishing opportunities.  

Fish types: Largemouth bass, Smallmouth bass, Rainbow trout, Brown
trout, Blue gill, Carp

Special points of interest: Island with tree overhangs, areas set off by
warning pylons

The island with the tree overhangs is much like Lunker lake, and in
addition, there are several places along the shore where trees overhang
the lake as well.  

There are two areas set off by pylons that you can fish in.  One in the
north and one in the north east part of the lake.  The one in the NE is
the more interesting of the two.  Since you can't drive the boat over
these sections you will have to take your chances on finding fish here.
However, these can be places where the really BIG bass will be hiding.
Definitely worth a look


6.1.3 Alpine lake specifics 
---------------------------

While there are few special points of interest for this lake, there are
also few places you can tangle up your line in an obstacle.  This would be
a good hassle-free fishing lake under most any condition.

Fish types: Largemouth bass, rainbow trout, brown trout, Cherry Trout,
Blue gill, Catfish, Carp

Special points of interest: Areas marked off by pylons, Sluice tower, tree
overhangs on shore, shallow bay with lily pads 

The areas marked off by pylons in the Eastern part of the lake are not far
from where you start.  The area is reletively small so it's barely worth
noting, but there's always the chance that the fishing here will be good.

The sluice tower is in the southernmost tip of the lake.  Unlike the other
sluice towers, this one appears to be on concrete blocks.  It might be
worth fishing around this obstacle, but as always, be careful.  *Line
tangling hazard

Along the shore are more tree overhangs.  Always worth checking out if the
water temperature is at or above 70 degrees F.

In the northwest part of the lake is a shallow bay (3 feet deep) which has
some lily pads to fish in.  In warm weather this can be a good spot to
stake out as the fish are looking for food in shallow water. 

6.1.4 Mirror lake specifics
---------------------------

This lake is the most obstacle-ridden lake in the game.  Poles, tall
weeds, fish nurseries, tetrapods, all seemingly conspiring to take your
fish from you at the last moment.  In general it is the most shallow of
all the lakes, which can make finding fish a problem in the wrong season.

Fish types: Largemouth bass, Spotted Bass, Florida Bass, Blue Gill,
Catfish, Snake Head, Carp, Silver Carp, Big Head Carp

Special points of interest: tetrapods along the shore, various inlets,
fish nurseries, areas set off by poles, tree overhang, area bordered by
tall grass/weeds.

The tetrapods are the concrete wave barriers set up along shore.  These
oddly shaped obstacles provide lots of hiding places for bass, and lots of
opportunities to get your lure stuck.  While fishing here can be good,
it's very likely you will lose your fish when the line or the lure gets
hung up.  *Line tangling hazard and lure hazard.

Along the shore in various places (too numerous to mention) are inlets
where water enters the lake from other sources.  These can be great
fishing spots.  You won't be able to cast too far under these openings,
but it should be good enough just fishing near the openings.

In a few places in the center of the lake map are square 'fish nurseries'.
As before, you can cast your line into these, but you won't be able to get
your fish out, so don't waste your time.  However, around these nurseries
are several tree stumps and branches.  These are excellent places to stake
out.  If you've practiced identifying the underwater objects with the
depth finder, you may wish to mark the spots with buoys so you can move
your boat back and cast at the right spot.

In the extreme north east part of the lake, is a fairly large area set off
by poles (preventing you from driving the boat up there).  While you can
find some really BIG fish here from time to time, the poles present the
greatest hazard to your line here.  Expert fishermen will find this a
challenge.  Another area set off by poles is in the Southeast part
of the lake.  This one has even more poles to get in your way.  *Major
line tangling hazard.

Not far from the poles in the NE section of the lake is a small tree
overhanging the lake.  It's just about the only shade on the whole lake
(except hiding under boats and such).  I have almost caught the biggest
fish of my life there (the one that got away).  The bottom of the lake has
some branches or something that tends to get some lures hung up though.

In the southernmost tip of the lake is an area completely surrounded by
tall weeds.  This can be a good place to check for fish, but the water
here is fairly shallow.  

6.2 Fish information
--------------------

Blue Gills: Of all the kinds of non-bass fish, Blue gills are the most
common.  There may be times when you catch 3 or 4 of these in a row before
you see another bass. 

Largemouth Bass: The most common of the types of bass you can catch.
These range in size from puny up to whopper/lunker size. 

Smallmouth Bass: Not small by any means, they are generally not as large
as the largemouth bass though.  Smallmouth bass are only found in Crystal
lake.  They usually live under big rocks and near boulders.  Smallmouth
bass are the strongest fighters of all the bass.  

Spotted Bass: A type of bass that prefers colder waters.  Generally larger
than Smallmouth bass but not as large as Largemouth Bass.  They can
usually be found in deep cold water.

Florida Bass: A subspecies of largemouth bass.  They are reported to be
much smarter than their cousins.  They are fairly large on average as
well.

Catfish: These aren't your American variety catfish.  The asian variety
grow to be very long and fairly big.  However, because this is primarily a
nocturnal fish, it's rare to catch one.  They prefer murky water around 16
feet deep.  You may catch a catfish in the same general area as a snake
head.  They have similar preferences for conditions.

Snake head: This strange looking fish originated from Korea and according
to the game they like water at about 10 ft. and like to swim near lily
pads.  I have noticed them in other places however but I've only caught
two of these, and one of those times was during the tutorial.

Brown trout: a type of trout that likes cold, muddy water.  So far I've
only caught two of these and the largest I've caught was 7.71lbs.  

Rainbow trout: Like all trout, they prefer colder waters, but they do
better in warmer waters than other trout.  A lot more common than the other
varieties.  In fact, I had one string of "bad luck" during a tournament
where I caught 6 of them in a row.  The largest so far at 4.29 lbs

Cherry trout: a smaller variety of trout. Very difficult to catch as they
tend to be nervous and uninterested in their surroundings.  

Carp: While not very easy to catch, these fish will put a scare into you
when you finally hook one.  They are fairly large on average and the
biggest one reported at 5ft long and 77lbs (Yowza!) 

Lake Biwa Trout: Another small variety of trout that isn't too common.
While tending to be small on average, I have caught one at 5.28 lbs.

Bighead carp: an extremely rare fish.  Consider yourself lucky if you ever
see this fish.

Silver carp: another rare fish.  I finally managed to catch one (after
owning the game for more than 6 months!). 

SECTION 7: General tips
----------------------------------

You can easily tell if you've got a bass on the line if it jumps out of
the water.  It seems that only bass will jump to try to free themselves.
While some bass can be reeled in without ever having them jump out of the
water, you can almost bet that the bigger bass will jump at least once.
If you are having to struggle with a fish and he doesn't jump out of the
water, chances are it's a carp or something else.

If you watch the picture of the lure while you're fighting your fish, you
can tell if he's getting ready to jump by the depth of the lure.  If it's
at 0.3 ft, chances are he's about to jump.  Keep your eyes peeled and be
ready to lower your rod (or raise it).

If you're playing a tournament and you seem to be having no luck, don't
give up.  I have made most of my big gains in total fish weight in the
last hour of a tournament.  Also, if you're playing a tournament or free
fishing at medium or higher pressure, don't stay in one spot for too long.
Cast a few times, then move the boat about 30 feet or so.  If you found a
good fishing site and don't want to forget about it, put a buoy there and
come back about an hour or two later.

Sometimes, if you get a hook off you can leave the lure in the same
general area and hook the same fish twice.  This is more unlikely to
happen the higher the pressure level is set though.

Learn to effectively use the depth finder. If you can find tree stumps and
branches underwater, you can greatly increase your chances of finding
fish.  Also, take note of any area where you see a lot of small 'bait
fish'.  One or two little dots doesn't mean much, but if you find a whole
bunch in one spot, chances are bass are lurking nearby.

In general, you should set the drag fairly low. A setting of 2 is just
about right.  If you notice that the tension on the line is low (the bar
is green) you can bump it up a notch.  The optimal tension is between the
halfway and 3/4 mark on the tension meter.  This helps to wear down the
fish, and gives you just enough breathing room to lower the drag if he
should suddenly get strong on you and try to make a run for it.

The total length of your fishing line only amounts to about 295 ft so if
the fish has run the line out that far, decrease the drag.  If the fish
takes the line out to 295 ft there will be no more margin for error and
the only thing holding that fish on the line is the strength of the line
you are using.  For example, if I am using an 8lb test line, and the fish
weighs more than about 6 1/2 to 7lbs, chances are he will be able to break
the line before I will be able to reel him in.

Any other tips and suggestions are welcome. Email me at arleas@imagin.net
and I'll be happy to include it in the next revision.

7.1 Landing tips
----------------

Take extra care when fishing around obstacles like poles or other things
that fish can swim through and tangle up your line.  I have lost several
fish due to this.  The fish would swim by an obstacle and get the line
hung up on something, and then either the fish would get off the hook
leaving my line stuck, or the fish would be stuck too.  

When the fish takes the line out around a pole, ignore what James says
about which direction to move the rod.  Essentially, if the fish swims to
the right and a pole is in the way (bending the line) move your rod in the
same direction.  James will be really annoying and will say "Rod left! rod
Left!" but if you move the rod left, chances are good that you will lose
the fish that way.  If there is more than one pole, the fish can really
tangle up your line this way.

If you hook the fish very close to the boat, be EXTRA cautious when
landing him.  If the fish jumps that close to the boat, he will probably
get off the hook.  It's safer to let him run the line out a bit and tire
himself out first.

Also, if you're using the Fishing controller, it's pointless to try to
reel in while you hear the loud clicking noise.  The loud clicking noise
is to indicate that the fish is dragging your line out from the reel.  In
some cases, trying to reel at this time can cause the tension to go too
high.  Maintain a slow reeling pace to keep the tension steady, but if you
have to reel too much to keep a good tension on the line, just increase
the drag.   Likewise, if you can't reel at all without danger of breaking
the line, decrease the drag.  

If you have a particularly big fish on the line and he keeps running your
line out to the maximum length (295 ft.) then try this: Pull the rod up,
and as you slowly release it, reel in the slack.  Doing this can sometimes
slowly inch the fish towards you, and at the least can return some margin
for error with the drag settings again.  If you notice the fish running
the line out past 250 ft you should attempt this to keep him from getting
it out to the maximum length.

7.2 Gameshark codes
-------------------

I have only included one code, because I feel that it's the only code you
might need.  Other codes can be found by checking the Gameshark Code
Creator's club (GCCC) or the Interact Gameshark website.

Perfect score in Tutorial tests: 800C343A 0064

Note that this does not work on the test about Bass ecology.  However,
that test is quite easy to ace.  You will still have to go through all
parts of the test for the score to be registered.  The exception to this
is the final exam.  You can fail one section on purpose (by weighing in
before the time is up) and that test will end, but will still give you a
100 for that section.  This code was made with a V3.0 gameshark.  I'm not
sure if it will work properly on older versions.

I'd highly recommend that you NOT use this code on your first time
through.  Try to finish the tests on your own to see how well you do and
THEN come back and shark it :)

SECTION 8: Frequently Asked Questions
-------------------------------------

Since this IS an FAQ, I am compiling a list of the most frequently asked
questions with the answers (hopefully).  If you have any questions, my
email address is at the top and bottom of this file.  If I use your
question, I'll give you credit in the last section.

Question:
Have you ever caught a (insert fish type here)?

Answer:
I've caught at least one of every kind of fish so far, except the big head
carp.  Some fish are just not as common in these lakes as others, so don't
be discouraged if you haven't filled up the record books with all the fish
types.

Question:
How do you catch a (insert fish type here)?

Answer: 
It varies with the type of fish.  I'm still unsure if there is any special
requirement to catching a certain type of fish.  I've listed just about
every possible requirement I know of here.  I would be interested in
hearing about any special techniques anyone might have for finding a
certain type of fish.

Question:
What do I need for carp/catfish (or other fish type)?  Is there a specific
part on a map? 

Answer: 
I think the trick is to have the settings just right for the type of fish
you want.. in other words, if you're after trout, go for cold water
temperatures...if you're after catfish, they prefer murky water... I don't
know exactly what types of water the snakehead prefers...but I think cold
and murky is a good place to start...(cold meaning between 40 and 50
degrees).

For Carp, I think they generally prefer the shady areas of the lake... try
fishing near the trees and see if that helps.  Also, be prepared for a
fight.  They won't jump out of the water, but the smallest carp I've ever
caught is equal to the weight of some of the largest bass I've ever
caught...(about 6-8lbs)...I'm hopefully going to compile a list of the
best places to fish, the best lures to use and the best time of year to
find them etc.
 
Also, if you're looking for catfish, they tend to stay near the bottom of
the lake, around 8-10ft deep.  I've only caught three of them so far so
i'm still unsure if there's anything I did that attracted them.  

Each fish type has their own habits.  If I have found any particular area
to be good for catching a certain type of fish, it's probably already in
the FAQ.  If it's not and you have a tip, email me and I'll be glad to
give you credit for the tip.

Question:
Are there any fish out in the middle?

Answer:
There ARE fish in the middle of the lake, just none below 49 feet deep.
Generally they are close to shore, but it really depends on season.  Check
the Tutorial section on Bass Ecology for more information.  Also, if
you're looking for some good places to fish, look for inlets (Places where
your boat can't go but water can), floodgates, Under tree overhangs (in
summertime especially) and around the tetrapods in Mirror lake...but watch
that you don't lose your lure when fishing around obstacles.

SECTION 9: Acknowledgements, credits, and resources used.
---------------------------------------------------------

Thanks go out to Agetec and Ascii for producing a wonderfully realistic
fishing game and controller.  I have used some information from the manual
and game to make this FAQ but so far, that is it for the credits section.

Thanks also to Gameshark and Interact for making it so easy to create your
own codes.

Thanks go to Fathead194@aol.com for asking some very good questions in
Email, and giving me a reason to update this FAQ some more and polish it
up a bit.

If you feel I could improve on this FAQ in any way, email me at
arleas@imagin.net and I'll be happy to put your suggestion in the next
revision.