Bass Landing - Strategy Guide (Page 01)
Below are the cheat codes, hints and help for Bass Landing - Strategy Guide (Page 01).
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arleas@imagin.net FAQ V1.4 **
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LEGAL MUMBO JUMBO
-----------------
This entire FAQ was written by Lee Rolfing a.k.a. Arleas and all material
contained within is copyright 2000 by Lee Rolfing, unless otherwise noted.
This FAQ may not be distributed without the prior written consent of the
author and may not be used in any game magazines, strategy guides, or in
any other publication unless you want to give me a job. This FAQ is
authorized to be posted by www.cheatcc.com and vgstratagies.about.com. If
you wish to contact me about this FAQ, my email address is at the top of
this file.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
-----------------
INTRODUCTION
CHANGES
SECTION 1: Tutorial mode
1.1: Casting
1.2: Reeling and hooking
1.3: Lure features
1.4: Rod actions
1.5: Boat movement and Depth finder
1.6: Bass ecology
1.7: Final exam
1.8: Rewards for the tests
SECTION 2: Getting started
SECTION 3: Game modes
3.1: Free Fishing
3.1.1: Lake environment
3.2: Tournament mode
SECTION 4: Casting tips
4.1: Overhand cast
4.2: Sidehand cast
4.3: Pitching cast
4.4: Skipping cast
SECTION 5: Tackle box tips
5.1: Rods
5.1.1: Spinning rods
5.1.2: Bait rods
5.2: Reels
5.3: Lures
5.3.1: Soft lures
5.3.2: Rigs
5.3.3: Hard lures
SECTION 6: Fish types and Lake information
6.1.1: Lunker lake specifics
6.1.2: Crystal lake specifics
6.1.3: Alpine lake Specifics
6.1.4: Mirror lake specifics
6.2: Fish information
SECTION 7: General tips
7.1: Landing tips
7.2: Gameshark code
SECTION 8: Frequently asked questions
SECTION 9: Resources and acknowledgements
INTRODUCTION
------------
This is my first attempt at writing a FAQ. I noticed nobody seemed to
have written one for this game and I decided I would take a shot at it.
It is one of the best fishing games I have ever played, and it's the
closest you can get to a real fishing experience without leaving
the house.
CHANGES
-------
V1.4 Added in the Frequently asked questions and updated some information.
V1.3 Corrected spelling errors and other mistakes
V1.2 Expanded the section on the lakes to include points of interest.
V1.1 Made a Table of Contents
V1.0 Completed the rest of the text.
V0.8 wrote most of the text for each section
V0.2 Polished up the outline a little to help organization.
V0.1 Mostly deciding on the outline for the FAQ.
SECTION 1: The Tutorial mode
----------------------------
First off, I'd like to say that this is probably the most important mode
if you are just starting out. Even if you have read the manual, or if you
consider yourself to be a professional fisherman, the tutorial does a lot
to explain what the game expects from you. Some of their techniques may
differ from real life fishing, so it never hurts to learn what the game
will respond to best.
Your teacher is a woman who has a really bad sense of humor. In general
you don't have to wait for her to finish "talking" since all she does is
gesture and move her mouth. You can speed things up a bit by pressing X
to skip to the next block of text. I've broken the list down by the
lessons the teacher offers.
1.1 Casting
-----------
Here is where you learn the basic controls for the game. It doesn't
matter if you are using the fishing controller that came with the game or
a standard controller, since the game will detect which one you are using
and modify the lessons to display the correct information. I suggest
using the fishing controller since it offers the most realistic "feel" for
the game.
You start out in the "Agetec Fishing School" with your teacher sitting in
front of you with a screen behind her to display the information she is
going over.
The four types of casting available are: Overhand, Sidehand, Pitching, and
Skipping. After she explains the pro's and con's of each method of
casting you will go on to get some practice and then take the test.
Take the time to practice each type of casting since you will be expected
to have a certain amount of control over where your lure lands in the
test. The important things to pay attention to here are when to use each
casting method, and how to use "thumbing" to complete the casting.
During practice and the tests the teacher will control the boat while on
the practice lake (Bass Lake) with the exception of Lesson 5. All you
have to worry about is following the on screen instructions. For practice
she will ask you to try each casting method 5 times. Use this time to
practice not only the process of casting, but also to practice putting the
lure where you want it.
With the fishing controller, the harder you swing the controller during
casting, the farther it will go, up to a point. Likewise, the lighter you
swing it, the less distance you will get out of the casting, down to a
minimum. The range varies with each type of casting, but it's important
to note that a certain amount of force is needed to get the controller to
recognize it as a legitimate cast, and the maximum force needed to
register as the longest distance is generally no more than a hard snap of
the wrist. Swinging the controller in wide arcs isn't going to help.
The standard controller/Dual shock controller use a meter system with a
cursor to determine how accurate you were in casting. You control the
distance by positioning a marker where you want the lure to land. While
this seems like it would be much more accurate than the fishing controller
(and it can be) it requires much more skill to use accurately. If you
don't stop the meter in the red area, your shot will go either left or
right of the spot you marked, and the power will be off too.
After you've finished the practice, you'll be given the option to practice
again or go right to the test.
The test itself consists of a yellow target circle that you must land the
lure in within a given time limit. It's not too hard to complete, but a
few are a little tricky due to the wind. Each successful cast gives you
10 points for a total of 100 points, and you only need 70 to pass.
As long as you have time remaining, you can take as many tries at hitting
the target as you need. Don't be alarmed if you see the word "FAIL" pop
up. It just means that particular attempt failed, not that you failed
that part of the test. However, if time runs out before you land the lure
in the circle, you will not get any points for that part of the test.
The first few can be done with just about any casting method (though some
are easier than others) but the last 3 tests are done with the skipping
cast only. A lot of practice is needed here to get it just right.
1.2 Reeling and Hooking
-----------------------
This lesson focuses on various methods of reeling in lures to make the
lure more attractive to the fish. This lesson is fairly important so pay
attention. It covers everything after the cast except how to land the
bass. After a brief discussion of one technique in reeling and how to
tell if the fish is biting, you will go on to practice. Again, its
important you take time to practice until you're fairly comfortable with
this process.
For the practice session, pay attention to the picture of your controller
at the right side of the screen. It'll go over the proper method to
follow. First you'll cast and reel in 5 times, then you'll be told to try
it again 5 more times only a few more tips will be given. After that,
you'll have to try to hook the fish. All you have to do is watch the
on-screen directions and you should be fine. Whether or not you hook a
fish the lesson will continue. You get to practice the Stop & go
technique, the falling technique, and how to hook fish by reeling in.
In the test, you will be required to use certain lures with certain
techniques to hook a fish. If you don't hook a fish within the time limit
you get no points for that section. Once again 70 is needed to pass. The
test is a little more tricky this time than before, but passing should be
no problem at all. Just follow directions and remember to hook the fish
the way they tell you, otherwise it won't count.
1.3 Lure features
-----------------
This lesson deals with chosing the right lure for a given situation.
It's very informative and should be a big help, unless you know it all
already. The lesson covers hard vs. soft lures, topwater plugs, the
various types of rigs used with the soft lures, and all the techniques and
situations which each one is best suited for. A very useful section
indeed.
Practice for this lesson differs from the others. You get to visit the
"Virtual Aquarium" to see how each type of lure moves underwater. You
have the option of chosing which lure you'd like to see, and then you are
given control over reeling it in to see how it moves underwater.
For the test on this section, you will be given the lake conditions and
you will have to choose from a list of three choices which is best for the
situation, then within the time limit you have to hook a fish. This is
very tricky so don't be discouraged if you fail the first time through.
Also, there may be more than one "answer" for the given situation, but
there is always one that works best. As usual, 70 is needed to pass this
test.
1.4 Rod actions
---------------
This lesson covers some techniques to use while reeling in the lure to
help attract the fish. Each technique works better with some lures than
others. Rod action also covers moving the rod while trying to land a
fish. While it's possible to catch fish in this game with no rod actions
whatsoever, you will find that it's a lot easier if you mix some rod action
in from time to time to help attract the fish. This section alone can
help you out considerably in the game.
The main types of rod actions are: Jerking, shaking, twitching, bottom
bumping, and the lift & fall technique. After hearing the descriptions of
each type, you are offered the chance to return to the virtual aquarium
where you can see what each looks like underwater. To help keep things
interesting, you are also asked to identify the lures used in the
demonstration.
This lesson also covers the different types of rods and the pros and cons
of each type, as well as the effects and function of the drag setting on
the reel. After all this explanation, you get to go once again to Bass
Lake to practice. This time it's extremely important to watch the
controller pictured at the right side of your screen. After casting,
reel when the picture shows the reel moving, and move the analog stick in
the directions shown by the arrows when they show up. If you do it right,
the name of the technique will flash at the bottom left of your screen.
Also, you are much more likely to get a strike in the practice mode this
way.
In some cases, you are given a demonstration to watch so you'll know what
you need to do. Before you go on to the test, you should be fairly good
at performing the various techniques.
After practicing each technique 5 times (which can be a little tedious)
you are given practice on landing the bass. 5 attempts on landing small
bass, 5 attempts on medium sized bass (more likely to fight), and 5
attempts to land a bass that will jump out of the water.
For the test, you have to choose a lure to hook a fish in the first four
tests, and the last six tests you will be given a choice of lures to fit a
given condition, and then you'll have to land a bass. Each test has a
fairly short time limit, but if you use the appropriate method, you are
guaranteed to hook a fish. This test is a bit tricky, but provided you
spent enough time in practice, you should have no trouble.
1.5 Boat control and depth finder
---------------------------------
This lesson covers the basic boat controls as well as how to effectively
use the depth finder. While the boat controls themselves are fairly
simple, learning to use the depth finder makes fishing a bit easier. The
main points you want to pay special attention to is learning identify the
various underwater structures in the game. Not only is it on the test,
but knowing what those little bumps on the display means can help you find
a good fishing spot without having to rely on locating a fish.
I won't go over all the information in this lesson, mostly because there
really isn't a good way to show you in a text file what the game can show
you in the tutorial. Pay attention to the various structures and what
they look like on the depth finder. It's not easy to identify each
object, but once you get the hang of it, certain objects will be
recognizable (such as tree branches and stumps).
Supposedly, if you hook a fish near an underwater structure, it will show
up on the replay. So far I have yet to see anything other than rocks,
sand and weeds. This could be another incentive to look for these objects
in the game.
The practice session for this lesson isn't really practice. You get to
drive the boat around in both gas and electric motor modes, and the
controls are so simple it doesn't really take much skill. The game fails
to mention this in the tutorial but the L1 and R1 buttons will move the
boat sideways, which is useful for when you want to adjust your position
without changing your orientation.
After you're done driving the boat, the teacher will take over again to do
a drive-by of a few objects to show you better what it looks like when you
drive the boat over one. This is probably the most useful part of this
lesson as it shows you in detail what each object looks like as you drive
the boat over it. Later, you practice driving the boat some more, and
placing marker buoys.
The test for this lesson consists of driving the boat around the lake and
collecting flags (by running over them) for the first part. The second
part will consist of finding a certain underwater object, and marking it
with a marker buoy. This is a fairly easy test, but you may have trouble
locating some objects with the depth finder. However, the location of
these objects never changes so if you need to take the test again, sooner
or later you'll figure out where everything is.
1.6 Bass ecology
---------------
This lesson is pretty straightforward. First you'll listen to the teacher
describe the habits of fish during various times of the year, and since
you can't really practice this, you go directly from the lesson to the
test.
The test is in the form of a multiple choice quiz. It's very easy, and
even if you don't score a passing grade, you can just take it over until
you get the whole thing right. This time a score of 80 (out of 20
questions) is needed to pass, but there should be no excuse for not making
a 100 on this test.
1.7 Final exam
--------------
There really is no lesson in this section. The teacher just goes over
what's expected for the final exam and then you take the test. Unlike any
previous tests, you must pass all 4 parts of this final exam to pass.
This test runs a lot like the tournaments however so while it's a little
intimidating, it's not that hard.
For each section, you are given a season (time of year), fairly generous
time limit, # of fish to catch and weight requirement. If they tell you
to catch 5 fish totalling 8 lbs, you must catch five fish, even if the
first one you catch weighs 8 lbs. It's fairly simple. The live-well can
only hold five fish but you are always able to exchange fish in the
live-well for a fish you've just caught if is better. While this is a
long test, it's good practice for what the tournaments are like.
1.8 Rewards for the tests
-------------------------
Provided you make over a certain score, you are given the option of
chosing a different 'life jacket' for your fisherman. Also, if you scored
at least 530 points total out of a possible 700 (the minimum score to pass
all the tests and the final exam) you get a 3rd reel to choose from in
your tackle-box. The special reel is a bait reel with better drag
settings on it. Should you happen to score a perfect 700, you get to
choose from 4 different types of life-jackets. If you REALLY want the
coolest life-jacket, don't try the final exam until you've scored 100
points on all the other sections. Once you finish the final exam, the
teacher gives you your prizes based on your total score at that point
(provided you passed the final exam). It really isn't worth the hassle
though since the life-jacket is just there for looks. It doesn't affect
gameplay at all. It's just there for boasting rights.
SECTION 2: Getting Started
--------------------------
This FAQ will assume from here on out that you are familiar with the
controls of the game as well as everything mentioned in the tutorial mode.
>From the first menu, you are given the choices of start, continue or
options. Start is to begin a new game only, Continue is to continue from
a saved game and options allow you to adjust the time scale, turn the
vibration feature off, and other things. While you are able to change the
time scale here, I have not noticed it making any difference during a
tournament.
Also, while you can save up to three separate files without taking up
additional card space, I would suggest organizing your save files like
this: 1st slot = Your original game save with the tutorial completed;
playing the free fishing mode from this file is a good idea. 2nd slot =
Tournament games saved between tournaments only. 3rd slot = Any game saved
in the middle of a tournament (including between 2 day tournaments).
The reason for this is due to the way the game handles tournaments. If you
save constantly in the same slot and wind up losing a tournament, you are
forced to go back and start a new game in order to start over. This can
be frustrating if you happen to have gotten good scores in the tutorial
mode since any rewards you earned will be lost when you start a new game.
The good news is, as long as you start a new game and save over an old
one, your old records will still be there. Records are lost if you ever
delete the save game from the memory card manager screen.
You should also note that the only way to save your record fish during a
tournament is to save the game before the tournament is over. The reason
for this is that you have to tell the game to load from a save file before
it'll let you save the game again. If you forgot to save your game to
save your record fish, you lost them.
SECTION 3: Game modes
---------------------
Once you've completed the tutorial and earned any rewards for high scores,
you are ready to go on to the real game. Of course, you could have gone
straight to the game if you are impatient, but I found the game much more
enjoyable once I had been through the tutorial mode.
3.1 Free fishing mode
---------------------
This is the mode you would choose if all you want to do is fish, without
the hassle of having a time limit imposed or having to compete against
others for the big fish. After selecting which save file you will load
from, you will be asked to choose from the four lakes. Each lake has its
own music (If you left it turned on in the option screen) and different
scenery as well as types of fish it is stocked with.
After choosing your lake, you will be asked to either set up the lake
environment, or let the computer randomly decide these factors. If you
are just starting out, it's best to choose to set up the lake yourself
since the computer can pick some really difficult fishing situations at
random.
3.1.1 Lake Environment
----------------------
The first option you are given is Pressure. This determines how difficult
the overall fishing will be. The higher the pressure, the more wary the
fish are of your lures and the less likely they will be to take the bait.
If you're just starting out, choose Low, or none. Medium and High will
provide you with a challenge later on.
The next option is season. The season affects how the bass will react as
well as where they will be hiding. I haven't confirmed it yet, but I also
believe the season has an effect on the average size of the fish. You can
choose which month as well as the beginning, middle or end of the month.
I would pick anything between the end of March (month 3) to the beginning
of October (Month 10). Keep in mind that season has an effect on how the
weather progresses over the course of the day. You can control most of
the weather conditions, but some things (like water temperature) are left
to the computer based on what season you are in.
Next is the weather for Yesterday, and then the weather for today. This
affects how fish are going to react as well. If you are in the middle of
a cooling trend in summer time, the fish are more likely to be active than
they would be in the middle of a warming trend. In general, this could be
set to random, but keep in mind that rain tends to make the fish more
active (in yesterday's weather). I will update this section more as I
learn the specifics of how this affects the fishing.
Wind direction and speed is subject to change over the course of the day,
and is probably affected by the season. In general the wind direction you
choose will probably not change much, but the speed will vary over time.
Setting it to as high as it gets (9.9mph) will result in high winds for
the first hour or so at least though. Wind speed and direction affects
which part of the lake will cool first. The more wind, the more the water
temperature will vary in different parts.
Water Temperature is also a big factor in how the fish will be biting that
day. The optimum temperature is between 60 and 70 degrees F, but this
will vary over the course of the day due to season, weather, and wind
conditions. If the temperature appears in red, it means that the water
temperature is too warm or too cold for that season. It's possible to set
it too high or too low intentionally, but it's not likely to stay that
way, and may have an adverse reaction on the fish.
Water quality affects how well the fish can see the lures, as well as how
well they'll be able to see the fishing line. In general, the more
cloudy the water is, the thicker the line you will be able to use, and the
brighter the lures you will want to use. Keep in mind that using a line
that is too thick or a lure too bright will result in the pressure level
going up.
Start time just affects at what time you start the game, and depending on
the season may start you out in darkness. You can always advance the time
forward once you start the game if you want to. I believe 6pm is the end
time no matter what time you start the game.
Time elapsed affects how fast time will pass compared to real time. While
it might seem to be ideal to set it to 1x time, this can make the fishing
"Too real" for some people. This means that if you find that you are
spending too much time waiting for a fish to bite, you should use the time
compression. This can not be changed once you start the game. In
general, 4x works fairly well. At this rate, one game hour passes for
every 15 minutes of real time.
After selecting "end setup" you are asked to confirm and then taken to the
tackle box screen. (see section 5 for tips on which lures to choose) If
at any time you want to end the current game and save your records you can
return your boat to the "Weigh in" spot marked on the map. Otherwise, you
can save your records by saving the game while still out on the lake.
3.2 Tournament mode
-------------------
After selecting this mode, you are taken immediately to your "Private
Room" where you can make changes to your tackle box, enter the tournament,
see the lake data for the event, or save the game.
You should first check the lake data to see the conditions, and then
change your tackle box based on that information. The most important
things to consider are: the season, today's weather, water temperature and
water quality.
If it's cloudy or if the water is murky, you should favor brighter lure
colors over the totally natural colors. Don't go too bright, but pick a
brighter shade depending on how dark it will be. Also, be aware of the
pressure level, and if it is especially high, you should take care to use
the lighter strengths of fishing line.
After you enter the tournament, the rankings list will be updated every
two game hours, so you can press start and keep an eye on how you are
doing. Each tournament has its own requirements to allow you to qualify
for the next one. Fail to qualify and you are treated to a game over
screen. Qualify according to the requirements and you go straight to your
Private room to prepare for the next tournament.
Be advised that some tournaments are split up into two days with the
combined total of your live well figuring into your final score.
SECTION 4: Casting Tips
-----------------------
There are only four casting methods available in this game, but what more
do you need? Assuming you have practiced with the tutorial mode, this
shouldn't be a major problem. However, I have discovered a few tips to
help you decide which method to use.
4.1 Overhand cast
-----------------
This is the easiest method of casting to use. It gives you the most
distance on your casting, but it is greatly affected by the wind causing
some difficulty on windy days. In general, use this casting method any
place you have ample room to cast, and where you have no overhead
obstacles in your way. Keep in mind that the lure makes a lot of noise
when it hits the water, so if you repeatedly use this cast in the same
area, the pressure level will rise.
4.2 Sidehand cast
-----------------
This method of casting is only useful in situations where the overhand
method is impractical. If the wind is severely affecting your accuracy,
or if there is an obstacle in the way, this method works well. It doesn't
give as much range however, and makes almost as much noise as the overhand
cast when the lure hits the water. As mentioned in 4.1, repeated casts to
the same area can cause the pressure level to rise.
4.3 Pitching cast
-----------------
This is the casting method I most prefer when I want to pinpoint the bass.
It has a very short range, but this is useful for those times when you
locate a lot of fish in one general area, and don't wish to drop a buoy and
move the boat. It also helps to reduce the pressure since it makes very
little noise when the lure hits the water. The best use for this casting
method is when you hear the fish alarm on the depth finder. You can
position yourself more accurately to take advantage of knowing exactly
where the fish are.
4.4 Skipping cast
-----------------
This casting method gives slightly more distance than the pitching cast,
but it is best used for putting your lure underneath obstacles such as
piers, tree overhangs, or any other tight spot where you would risk
getting your line stuck. The direction the lure skips off in is affected
by the direction of the waves, which in turn is affected by the wind
direction. Some skill is required to use this to put the lure exactly
where you want it.
SECTION 5: Tackle box tips
--------------------------
When you go to change the tackle box, you will first notice that you have
10 preset configurations. You can change any of these to match various
situations you might encounter.
5.1 Rods
--------
The type of rod you choose will have an affect on the strength of line you
can use, the weight of the lure you can use, as well as how fast the
tension meter will rise with a fighting fish on the line. Rods are broken
down into two groups with reels to match. Each rod has a minimum and
maximum suggested lure weight and line strength. While it is possible to
go over or below these limits, you may find your fishing performance
reduced greatly.
5.1.1 Spinning rods
-------------------
These rods are typically light and flexible. Spinning rods are better
suited to casting light lures than heavier ones. They range from
ultra-light action (0.04-0.24 oz lures) up to Medium-heavy action
(0.14-0.74 oz lures).
The heavier the action, the faster the tension meter will rise when you
are fighting a fish, and the less likely the rod will flex/more likely the
line will break when at full tension.
5.1.2 Bait rods
---------------
These are more sturdy rods with stiffer action than spinning rods
typically. They are better suited to heavy lures or conditions where you
are likely to encounter the really big fish. They range from Medium-light
action (0.14-0.25 oz lures) all the way to ultra-heavy action (0.35-1.4 oz
lures)
5.2 Reels
---------
This is the easiest decision to make. If it's a bait rod, use a bait
reel, and if it's a spinning rod, use a spinning reel. The only other
option is if you bothered to earn the special bait reel from the tutorial
mode. In that case, the special bait reel has slightly better drag
settings. In general, spinning reels have better drag settings than bait
reels. All this means is, you are less likely to break a line under
normal conditions using a spinning rod and reel.
Don't underestimate the drag settings. Using a 4lb test line, I was able
to land a 10.85lb carp thanks to the drag settings on a spinning reel.
5.3 Lures
---------
Lures are broken down into two types, hard and soft, with soft lures
giving the most natural movement underwater. Hard lures are sometimes the
most effective however. Each lure comes in an assortment of colors
ranging from totally natural, to highly appealing. The higher the appeal
rating of a lure, the more likely it is to cause the pressure level to
rise.
5.3.1 Soft lures
----------------
Straight worm (0.07 oz): This is a lightweight lure that can be combined
with just about any rig you like. It's most effective with the no sinker
rig, but works well with the splitshot or undershot rigs as well.
Paddle-tail worm (0.1 oz): This soft lure is usually seen with the Texas
Rig, but works fairly well with most other types of rigs as well.
Curly-tail worm (0.07 oz): The curly tail waves underwater to attract
fish. Best used with the splitshot or undershot rigs.
Single-tail grub (0.1 oz): Another lure that can be combined with most
rigs. This lure also has a curly tail, but has a thicker body.
Twin-tail grub (0.1 oz): This lure has two curly tails to appeal to fish
twice as much.
Crawfish (0.1 oz): This is a lure made to resemble a crawdad (crayfish to
you yankees). It tends to float a bit on its own so some kind of sinker
is needed in order for it to be useful.
Tubeworm (0.1 oz): The game states this is good to use with the falling
technique, but I've seen it work in many different ways. This lure as
well needs a sinker of some sort to keep it from floating on the surface.
A splitshot rig will do just fine.
Rubber jig 1/2 oz or 1/4 oz (0.5 or 0.25 oz): This is best used for the
bottom bumping technique or the lift and fall. I have found this lure to
be highly successful given the right conditions. It works best between 6
and 16 feet of water while using the bottom bumping technique. It isn't
recommended for the shallow depths since bottom bumping is hard to do in
less than 6 feet of water. This lure is combined with either the pork
rind, crawfish, or grub trailers.
5.3.2 Rigs
----------
The various soft lures have different motions underwater depending on the
type of sinker rig attached. Remembering what each rig does is much
better than trying to decide one soft lure for a certain occasion.
No sinker rig (0.03 oz): adds very little weight to a lure. This rig
allows for the most fluid, natural movement. It can be a bit slow to sink
to the bottom, but when the fish are slow to bite, this is a good choice.
Splitshot rig (0.1 oz): a rig with a weight attached, but some distance
from the hook. It allows for fairly natural, fluid movement, but sinks
faster than the no-sinker rig.
Carolina rig (0.25 oz): A rig with two weights and a bead attached. The
bead moves up and down between the two weights making a clicking sound to
help attract the bass. It sinks rather quickly and is best suited for
shallow to mid-depth fishing.
Texas Rig (0.25 oz): much like the Carolina rig, this has only one weight
attached however, and has a fairly long leader between the weight and the
hook. Small motions with the rod don't affect the lure much, but jerking
or twitching will cause the lure to wiggle. Shaking is not as effective
however.
Undershot rig (0.1 oz): this is much like the splitshot rig, only the
weight is underneath the hook. This allows the weight to drag the bottom
while keeping the lure a few inches above the bottom of the lake. Use
this whenever fish are near the bottom.
Jighead rig (0.18 oz): The hook and weight are combined. Any slight rod
motion causes the lure to wiggle. This is probably the best rig to use
when you want to fish at the bottom of the lake. Bottom bumping, lift and
fall, shaking, and twitching all work pretty well with this type of rig.
5.3.3 Hard lures
----------------
Popper (0.25 oz): This lure floats on the water's surface and makes a
plopping sound when reeled in. It works best with the stop and go
technique.
Pencil Bait (0.42 oz): this stick bait just floats on the surface of the
water. Reeling it in with the stop and go technique, little by little, or
using rod action works pretty well.
Swisher (0.5 oz): this is basically just pencil bait with a propeller on
the back end of it. Use the stop and go technique to attract the fish
with this lure.
Buzz bait (0.35 oz): the propeller makes this lure rise as you reel it in.
It works best when the propeller makes a splashing sound on the water's
surface. Since it sinks if you don't reel it in, it's best to reel this
one in at a fairly constant pace, slowing down at times to give the fish a
chance for a reaction bite.
Vibrating lure (0.63 oz): the body of this lure vibrates back and forth as
it is reeled in, thus mimicking a small fish, and also making some noise
to attract the bass. Most of the time, I find other types of fish will
leave this lure and the buzz bait alone, since the bass are the ones
primarily attracted to the sounds they make.
Floating minnow (0.28 oz): This is a good shallow water lure. It acts
like a small skinny version of the vibrating lure, but this one floats to
the surface if you stop reeling it in.
Suspended minnow (0.32 oz): This lure is identical to the floating minnow,
but it rises to the surface VERY slowly. It's best used in cold waters
when the bass are not as active.
Shad minnow (0.35 oz): This is really a type of crank bait. It's made to
look like a small fish, and also floats to the surface when you stop
reeling. If you aren't having any luck with anything else, give this one
a try.
Shallow/medium/Deep crank (0.28/0.42/0.49 oz): Much like the shad minnow,
these lures dive when you reel them in, and float to the surface when you
stop. The medium and deep crank baits dive faster than the shallow one.
The stop and Go technique works here.
Spinner bait Colorado/Willow leaf (0.53 oz): these are by far the best
lures I have. it's almost impossible to fish these lures incorrectly.
The Colorado type is best for the falling technique or lift and fall,
while the willow leaf type is best for the swimming technique (or a very
slow jerking technique). Both of these are almost guaranteed to get a
strike...though not always from a bass.
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