Madden NFL 2003 - Strategy Guide (Page 02)

Below are the cheat codes, hints and help for Madden NFL 2003 - Strategy Guide (Page 02).

PLAY ACTION PASSES
==================
Play action passes are plays that have the QB pretend to hand the ball to a
runningback, but then he'll drop back to pass. If you use too many of these, or
you seldom call runs, the enemy will not be fooled. For example, I typically
run PA Passes on the second down about 3/4 of the way to the enemy's goal line.
Except for the hardest difficulty, the computer is pretty fair. If you
generally call running plays, then throw in a PA on the same downs, the
computer will generally go for it.

There's a science to using this play, though. The defense will only react to it
for a split second, and typically only the LBs are thrown off. After all, the
WRs and TEs will be running their routes, so the CBs and safeties won't be
distracted since they're only looking at the guys they're supposed to be
covering. Also, the fake handoff takes about a second or two, which is enough
time for a sack if enough of the enemy is blitzing.

Basically, you shouldn't run a PA unless you know exactly how it's going to go
and who you're going to throw to. I'm not saying you'll have to pass
immediately after the fake, but because the PA is nothing more than a deception
pass (and is therefore only as good as the deception itself), you'll need to
find a target quicker than a normal pass play.

Because the MLBs and OLBs react more to PA plays than anyone else, try to
choose one in which you'll pass to someone going in the middle.

QB SNEAKS
=========
A QB Sneak is when the QB takes the ball himself and runs it. This typically
won't get more than a few yards, but it could throw the entire defense into
confusion. There is only one "set" QB Sneak; it's under the Goal Line formation
of all the playbooks. However, that doesn't have to be the ONLY QB Sneak.

If you watch real NFL games, you'll notice that when severe pressure is applied
to the QB, sometimes he'll just give up trying to throw it and run. This works
VERY well in-game, although you're going to need a very speedy QB to pull it
off with any sort of sucess.

One of my favorite plays was to call a Hail Mary, which sends five WRs (and
therefore all the CBs and safeties and LBs after them) deep. With most the
defense 30 yards downfield, and the rest tangling with my front line, that gave
my QB the chance to just walk around the scuffle and haul butt downfield. The
defense covering my WRs would have to take the time to turn around, plus my WRs
would try to block them. Also, the front line of the defense would have trouble
breaking away from the front line of my offense. By the time all the defense
figured out what was going on, my QB was several yards downfield already and
still running. When it was executed correctly, I could get upwards of 20 yards.

This is a VERY dangerous play to try all the time, however. QBs tend to drop
the ball when they're hit, and you'll have to be slightly lucky to get a QB
with the SPD to pull this off right. Also, if only one CB or LB hung back to
watch my QB, I could not get more than a few yards. I only used it in times of
crisis, or when I needed to throw variety into things.

HURRY UP OFFENSE
================
At the end of each half, you should hurry to get your plays off. You may elect
to choose the same play and not enter a huddle by issuing a No Huddle command.
Once the play is done, hold Triangle, and everyone will reset to the line of
scrimmage with the same play chosen. You can call an audible there to mix up
your offense.

This has other uses than the end game, however. The defense gets tired faster
than the offense, and by continually hurrying the play, you can make them tire
out fast. This will lead to them being at quite a disadvantage by the time you
get to their Red Zone. This also disrupts the tempo of the game if you start it
during the second or third quarter, and you can severely throw off a human
opponent at the same time. While the computer doesn't get completely confused,
they tend to fall asleep on the first few plays if you run a Hurry Up Offense
at an unexpected time.

+---------------------+
|4c. Beating the Blitz|
+---------------------+

First, I would like to thank Juan Little (jlittle@numind.net) for inspiring me
to write this...

The blitz is definitely a threat. However, there are a few things you can do.

First of all, if the blitz always comes from the middle, and the CBs just cover
receivers, consider a sweep. If only the LBs are blitzing, you can actually run
AROUND them.

If the blitz comes from the sides, there are a few things you can do. If you
want to try your luck, you can try to run the other way from the blitz, but
it's a little hard to guess that (and the blitz could come from BOTH sides
anyway). Running up the middle is also risky all the time, blitz or not.

If the enemy blitzes from the sides, then, you'll need to use your receivers
creatively. If you insist on running, then use a man in motion and put him on
the side of the run (if you run right, move the left-most WR as far right as he
can go).

The other thing you can do is set your WRs to BLOCK. To do that, select the
play. Then, before the snap, hit Triangle, then the button of the receiver,
then R2 or L2. He won't be an eligible receiver for that play, but he might be
able to stop whoever is blitzing.

Remember the basic rule of fighting against the blitz: for every man blitzing,
that's one less they have in the backfield. If his CBs are blitzing, then your
WRs are openb for a SPLIT-SECOND after the play stars. If your enemy is
consistantly using blitzes, especially from the sides, try passing only a
moment after snapping. It's risky, but he may not expect it.

+------------------+
|4d. Personal Faves|
+------------------+

Because my team has an all-around running and passing offense, and because I
run about two-thirds of my plays as runs, I needed a playbook with mostly run
plays but a good selection of passing plays as well. I settled on Mike Martz's
Saint Louis Rams playbook. Here are my favorite plays from that playbook...

SPLIT BACKS-NORMAL > HB OFF TACKLE - This is a perfect play to establish the
running game early. My HB takes the ball on a handoff from the QB and runs
right. The FB gives him a lead block, and the TE and offensive line block any
oncoming traffic. The sole WR on that side helps out too. I can get about 4 to
8 yards on average.

WEAK I-NORMAL > FB POWER - When I only need a few yards, such as a
third-and-short situation, I go to this play. The FB takes the ball and pounds
it up the middle while the HB goes to the right, hopefully making some of the
defense watch him. While I never get more than 2 to 4 yards with this one,
sometimes that's all I need.

SINGLEBACK-SLOT STRONG > PA HB CURL - This is a basic Play Action Pass play.
The HB fakes the handoff, runs up the field five yards, then curls back toward
the line of scrimmage to get a pass. The reciever on the left side of the field
is mimicing those motions, although he curls back after about 15 yards. The TE
runs up a few yards then breaks diagonally to the left, and he's normally the
one I'll pass to. Meanwhile, I have another reciever who is hanging around near
the right sideline, and another who's going deep. That gives me two short, two
mid, and one deep options for my pass.

SPLIT BACKS-3 WR > FLATS - This play features both runningbacks going shallow
for short passes. Two of the WRs are also running short routes, though one is
going deep. I use this play if I only need about 4 or 5 yards.

SPLIT BACKS-NORMAL > POST CORNER - This play has the two WRs going deep, but
they cut twice in the process. If the defense is napping or playing a zone
defense, the second cut normally loses safeties and CBs. The FB goes shallow,
but I try not to pass to him unless I have no choice. The TE goes forward five
yards, then cuts right, giving another option for a short-yardage gain.

SINGLEBACK-EMPTY 5 WR > HAIL MARY - 4 WR and my HB line up, and they just run
deep. My HB is normally who I throw to, and I favor the right side over the
left since there are more recievers there. Of course, if everyone's covered and
no play is possible, I drop it and tell my QB to run.

+-----------------+
|4e. Going for Two|
+-----------------+

If you're behind by a large margin, you can elect to go for a two-point
conversion after a touchdown. That means you decide not to kick a field goal
and simply try to make a touchdown from the two-yard line. If you suceed, you
get two points instead of the usual one. It's risky, but sometimes it's the way
to go.

If you're ahead, don't bother. When you're in the lead, you'll want every point
you can get, so there's little reason to risk getting none in order to get one
measely additional point more than the sure thing of the one-point field goal.

If you're behind, again you'll need every point you can get, and again there's
little reason to risk it. The time to try it is in the fourth quarter, when
that one point can mean the difference between a win and a loss.

Some people like to try it when they're one point down. That means they will
either be ahead or behind after the play, taking a gamble either way. I
personally don't do this, and I prefer to send a game into overtime with a
field goal than to risk a two-point conversion, especially during the playoffs.
It's really up to you, and you may want to use them more if you think you can
get those two yards easily. Just remember, though, that you only get one
chance.

If you have to take your extra-point attempt farther away for some reason (say,
an offsides or delay of game penalty on the first attempt), don't bother trying
a two-point conversion. It's hard enough to get 2 yards downfield on one play,
it's even harder to get 7 yards or more.



+------------+
|+----------+|
||5. DEFENSE||
|+----------+|
+------------+

Defense is somewhat harder, because the play is entirely controlled by the
offense. You have to react, and you'll need a little luck on your side as well.
However, once you have the basic formula down, you should do well.

+----------------+
|5a. Basic Theory|
+----------------+

The biggest thing you need to do, especially if you're actually playing one of
your defenders, is know what your player's responsibility is. Generally, you'll
not want to pull your DTs back to block passes, and you'll not want to bring in
your safeties to blitz (although there are plays written for those).

Beyond remembering what you're supposed to do, also know what you've been
ordered to do. The defensive plays are written so each player has their own
area or player to watch and defend. When a player steps away to help another
too early, it can result in problems.

For example, let's say that you're playing as your MLB. You see a WR burn your
CB, so you decide to go and help. That leaves the entire middle open, and if a
WR is running that way, he'll have an easy reception. You'll have to have the
mindset and will to keep your guys where they should be. After all, in this
example, one of your safeties should be picking up the stray WR. It's not the
job of MLBs to clean up trash.

Obviously, the DTs and DEs (along with anyone else who's blitzing) have easier
missions. Their jobs are to kill the QB with disregard for everything else. If
the play you picked assigns your guy to blitz, ignore all rules and tendancies
of where defenders are supposed to be. Yes, having your MLB blitz will leave
the middle open, but hopefully you'll get a sack before the QB can pass there.

You may be asking, "What's the difference between telling my guy to blitz and
picking a play that has him doing it? He's blitzing either way!"

There's a problem with going on your own. Plays in which non-linemen are
blitzing are DESIGNED to compliment the open area. For example, if you're
running a 3-4 formation, in which you have two MLBs, and one of those two
blitz, then the one who hangs back will take a half-step to the center as well,
trying to cover both areas.

You see, the "problem" is that the computer will control your other 10 guys as
the play dictates. So if you do something that the play did not intend to
happen, then your other guys won't try to help out with the open area. If you
take that MLB and have him blitz on a play that wasn't designed for him to, the
other MLB will not attempt to cover your guy's area until it's too late.

Once the ball has been thrown or handed off, it's a whole other story. The
moment you know that the enemy has thrown or handed off, your job, no matter
what your position, is to run over the ball carrier. It doesn't matter if
you're on the other side of the field, hold that sprint button down and get to
the ball.

To block passes, you'll have to first make sure you're between the ball and WR.
That seems obvious, but you have to realize that blocking passes is not the
only way to play defense. If you're ahead of the WR, you can wait until he
actually touches the ball before planting his face into the ground. That alone
may jar the ball loose, and even if it doesn't, it won't get them any
additional yardage.

Of course, blocking passes gives you a chance to intercept, and unless you're
one of the safeties, there is at least one man back to help you should
something go wrong. As the ball nears the target, simply hit the Triangle
button. Your player will try to catch it, although if he can't, he'll do his
best simply to knock it away.

To tackle a player, make sure you're close enough and jam the Square button.
Keep tapping it as you make contact to better you chances of taking him down.
Just remember not to blast the QB after he's passed, or the K or P after he's
kicked, or you'll get a penalty.

Defensive plays are mainly formation based...

4-3: A classic formation to stop runs up the middle and short passes.

3-4: A modified formation to stop short passes, especially in the middle.

46: A new formation to stop runs. Passes, especially deep ones, tend to eat up
this formation.

Nickel: Stops most passes to receivers, though it's a bit weak if the opponent
throws to a HB or FB. However, Nickel can also stop some runs.

Dime: Weak against runs but stops most passes to anyone.

Quarter: Stops all passes in theory, but a lack of defensive pressure on the QB
tends to give the receivers time to get open.

Goal Line: Stops most runs and almost all short passes, but medium or deep
passes (or an excellent runner) will destroy the defense.

Beyond the formations are plays that can make one formation act like another.
For example, if you have a blitz with a 3-4, the formation almost becomes a
Nickel because of how many people are running forward. Generally, blitzes put
pressure on the QB, but every man who goes after the QB is one less who is
covering a receiver.

Also be on the lookout for Double X and Double Z plays (3-4, 4-3, Nickel, and
Dime formations). Those command a saftey to double-team one reciever. If you
pick Double X, the receiver on the offense's left will get double-teamed.
Double Z will double-team the receiver on the offense's right.

Also, in Dime, you'll see Double Slot and Double Wide. Double slot will
double-team the receivers who are NOT on the edge. Let's say the front line
looks like this...

WR1  WR2  O O O O O   WR3  WR4

Double Slot will make WR2 and WR3 double-teamed while WR1 and WR4 are
single-teamed (WR2 and WR3 in that formation are slot receivers, hence "Double
Slot"). Double Wide double-teams WR1 and WR4, also dubbed the Wide Outs.

You have to understand though that it takes a LONG time to figure out defenses.
No offense intended, but any idiot can figure out offesive plays ("Player A
runs this way, Player B runs that way, and Player C stands there and blocks,"
etc.). Defensive plays take a great deal longer to practice and figure out. It
took me about 7 years of playing football video games to get a firm grasp on
it.

+---------------------+
|5b. Advanced Theories|
+---------------------+

LINE SHIFTING
=============
Before the ball is snapped, you can shift your DL and LBs. Hitting R1 activates
an LB shift, and hitting L1 activated a DL shift. Hitting left or right makes
those people slide a few steps that direction. Hitting up makes them spread
out, and hitting down tightens them up. If you see a weakness in the offensive
line, or you see a strength of the offense that you need to block, shifting
your lines may make the difference between a 20 yard gain and a 5 yard loss.

You basically want to look for a situation in which the offense has more WRs on
one side than the other. You'll want to shift your LBs to the side that has
more WRs to cover them better, for example.

Note that you don't need to shift your lines as long as the number of recievers
match your CBs. For example, if there are 2 WRs on the left and none on the
right, your RCB will move over to the left before the play even starts. No line
shifting is necessary in that case.

DEFENSIVE COVERAGE
==================
Before the snap, you can perform a coverage audible to tell your secondary
where to go and how tight they should cover the WRs.

Bump & Run coverage (Triangle, Down) tells your men to jam the receivers at the
line and stick with them closer than jockstaps as they run down the field. This
prevents quick passes, and increases the liklihood of an interception. Also,
should the WR actually get the ball, he should be planted soon after it.
However, if the offense is using their WRs creatively, with odd cuts and the
like, your CBs will get burned easily.

If you use a lax coverage (Triange, Up), your men will hang about five to seven
yards away from the LOS. That way, they can read and react a little better,
which more or less defeats the weird cuts the offense may try. But, that leaves
you open to short passes, quick passes, and absolutely BURNS you with runs. If
you know that he'll do a pass (say, late in the game with you leading), it's
safe to do a lax coverage.

You can also hit Triangle, Right to rearrange your men a little better. For
example, safeties typically stay back behind the middle. However, if the
offense is running a Singleback/Empty 5 WR set, then hit Triangle, Right to
send your safeties to the sides, where they'll cover the receivers MUCH better.
Or, if they run a Pro Form and send one of the runningbacks left or right,
hitting the Triangle, Right combo sends the closest safety at him without
moving the other. Of course, this affects more than just the safeties.

Creatively using Line Shifting and special Defensive Converage, especially
together, gives your defenses a bit of a flavor that the offense may not
expect. Mix it up to keep them guessing.

PREVENTING A TD
===============
Sometimes, towards the end of the game, all you'll want to do is prevent a
touchdown. If there's only time for one more play, for example, and you're
ahead, running a standard defense is not necessary. Definitely put your
defensive players in a lax coverage. You should also manually take one player
back deep, and have him be the last line of defense. I'll go on more about that
in a later section.

+------------------+
|5c. Personal Faves|
+------------------+

There are now four defensive playbooks. Although most have the same plays,
there are a few differences between them. I use the 3-4 playbook.

NICKEL > MAN LOCK - This play has the four defensive linemen charging forward.
The three CBs will tag and follow WRs. The MLBs will follow the runningbacks if
they go on passing routes, or they'll cover the middle area of the field. The
safeties go back toward the closest sidelines, preventing a Hail Mary or other
deep pass. This is a great balanced passing defense when you know that the
enemy will go to the air, but you're not sure where exactly the target will be.

3-4 > CB BLITZ - If you know that the enemy will run, this play will annihilate
them. The three defensive linemen charge the QB, and the CBs curl in from the
outside. With pressure from both sides, it's very hard to pull off a running
play against this defense, and offensive sweeps and tosses are most
susceptible. However, if the offense decides to pass, it leaves BOTH WRs open
for a very fast bullet.

3-4 > OLB BLITZ - This is a less risky version of CB Blitz, because the CBs
still cover the WRs, but with OLBs crashing the line, most runs will fail.

NICKEL > UNDER SMOKE - Both MLBs and one CB will blast through the line and try
to blast the QB and stuff the line in case they run up the middle. This defense
is weak against sweeps and shallow passes.

DIME > DOUBLE WIDE - Each of the CBs and the MLB will cover the five eligible
receivers. The safeties will cover the widest WRs.

DIME > UNDER MAN - Similar to Double Wide, but a little more variable. 4 CBs
cover four of the eligible receivers, and the safeties go deep. The MLB watches
the QB in case he takes off, but the MLB can also just cover the area against
short passes in the middle.

QUARTER > MAN LOCK - When you know that they're going to pass, like if it's 3rd
and long, you can't go wrong with this play. Each CB covers one of the eligible
receivers. The safeties go deep. The MLB watches the QB, but can break off like
Under Man.

QUARTER > 3 DEEP - Both safeties and the CB closest to the middle go back. Two
more CBs and the MLB cover zones about 7 yards wide. The end CBs cover the
areas they're standing in, preventing short passes. If the offense runs, you're
screwed. But if it's a shallow pass, though, you'll probably stop it.

GOAL LINE > SLANT STRONG - When you're within your own seven yard line, you'll
want to be very careful. If you make your defense too compact, you'll leave a
large open spot somewhere for a quick run or pass. If it's too sparse, then you
won't be able to help someone in time if they get into trouble. This play is a
healthy balance. Four defensive linemen charge the offense, making runs up the
middle nigh impossible. The men flanking them fall back and step to the
sidelines to deflect passes. Behind the front line is two men who can cover the
middle. On the sidelines are two CBs to stop quick passes, and to tag and
follow the WRs. This play is weak against a sweep.



+------------------+
|+----------------+|
||6. SPECIAL TEAMS||
|+----------------+|
+------------------+

Special teams are the guys who are on the field during any kind of kick.
They're comprised mostly of your best defenders, although the linesmen are
taken out of the equation due to their low speed.

+------------+
|6a. Kickoffs|
+------------+

Kickoffs usually feature your kicker on the 30 yard line. Kicking it out of
bounds will cause a penalty flag to fly, and the enemy gets the ball on their
own 40. If the kicking team kicks it into the endzone, the receiving team can
kneel, taking the ball on their own 20. Otherwise, once a member of the
receiving team gets it, everyone else will block while the ball carrier tries
to get as far downfield as he can.

The first goal of both teams rests on the 20 yard line of the receiving team.
If the receiver can get to his own 20 or farther, he "wins" the kickoff and
puts his team in a good position. If the kicking team stops the receiver before
his own 20, the receiver "loses" the kickoff, putting his team in a rather bad
position.

In the event of a safety, the scoring team will get the ball back. When this
happens, the kickoff is replaced with a safety punt by the kicking team's
punter. This kick will definitely not go as far, because the punter won't get a
running start. Safeties are bad for whoever is scored against for many reasons;
the nasty safety punt afterwards is part of it.

In a non-safety kickoff, you can attempt what's called an onside kick. Here's
the deal: technically, the moment the ball passes the kicking team's 40-yard
line, it's really anyone's to grab. So if you kick the ball at least 10 yards
and your guys get it, you get the ball back. This is what everyone does late in
the game if they're trailing.

This is EXTREMELY risky though. For example, if the ball goes less than 10
yards and one of your guys grab it, you get flagged for illegal procedure
(never mind that the ref doesn't say anything, that's what the penalty is
called). This is a five-yard penalty, but you can re-kick. If you mess up
again, the opponents will simply get the ball on your 40.

Also, if the opponents get the ball at all on an onside kick, they get to start
their drive from wherever they get it, whether it went 10 yards or not. That
means they can start on the edge (or closer) of field goal range... of course,
if you're attempting an onside kick, it's probably because you're extremely far
ahead or behind and can take the risk.

There's no easy way to perform the onside kick. 99 times out of 100, it will
fail. So, before attempting one, practice it to death in Practice Mode. That's
what the mode is there for anyway, and if there's any play that needs a
tremendous amount of practice, it's the onside kick.

+---------------+
|6b. Field Goals|
+---------------+

Field goals feature the kicker trying to boot the ball between the uprights
that lay against the endline of the endzone.

Before I go any further, I offer a quick explanation on how field goal
distances are calculated. The kicker is 7 yards behind the line of scrimmage,
and the uprights are 10 yards from the goal line (due to the endzone). So,
whenever field goal distances are calculated, take the yardage from the line of
scrimmage to the goal line and add 17. For example, if a team is on the 30 yard
line and attempts a kick, the kick is a 47-yard field goal attempt.

Field goal range is from around the enemy's 35 yard line to the goal line,
although 52 yards is stretching it. The safe distance is from the 20 yard line.
Despite the range, you can command your team to kick a field goal from anywhere
on the field if you so desire.

If the kick is made, the scoring team gets 3 points and kicks off to the
opponent. If the kick misses, the defense gets the ball where it was KICKED
(that is, 7 yards behind the line of scrimmage).

Patrick Lim (Neuropat@aol.com) has sent a way to block FGs, especially extra
points...

####################################################

hey ive found a glitch i guess that almost guarantees a successful block
against field goal formation (field goals and extra pts which can REALLY be
useful). First of all, you must be in punt block, pull the guy that goes back
to recieve to the line of scrimage, line up DIRECTLY behind the guy on the ball
snapper...see the diagram below.... and HOLD down on the analog
stick....basically the only thing stopping him from running down and into the
other team member and getting an offsides call is this guy your lining up
behind... When the ball snaps, a guy off the kicking team will pull over to
block you, thus a man is free to break through the line and block the kick. It
is almost always the guy that is 2 or 3 men down (can't remember) but once you
get it, go into replay, look at his number (or name) and substitute him with
the fastest defensive player on your team, usually a safety or linebacker. It
works just about everytime, except when the cpu takes control and jumps into
the kicker......


initial position.......before snap.......the block


       d
                           d
   dddddddd            dddddddd          ddddd dddddd
   oooooooo            oooooooo          ooooo oooooo
                                              d
      h                   h                   h
       k                   k                   k

o=offense
d=defense
h=holder
k=kicker

####################################################

+---------+
|6c. Punts|
+---------+

Punting is the way to launch the ball downfield when it's fourth down and you
have no hope of getting a first. You should only punt when you're too far away
from the endzone to attempt a field goal.

Punts are done by the punter, who stands 15 yards behind the line of scrimmage.
Unlike field goals, punt distances are determined by the line of scrimmage, not
the punter's location. So, if the line of scrimmage is on my own 30, and I
punted the ball to your 40, it would only be a 30-yard punt.

Because the punter stands 15 yards behind the line, he cannot give full power
to his punts if he's standing any closer. That means that if you're on offense,
and you haven't even gotten past your own 5-yard line, your punter will not be
at full strength. Of course, if you can't get past your own 5, you have more
problems than a weak punt.

If a punt goes out of bounds, then the receiving team gets the ball from where
it went out of bounds. This can work in favor of the kicking team; if you
manage to kick the ball out of bounds at the enemy's 1-yard line, then that's
where they have to start their drive.

Punts are subject to touchback rules if one is kicked into the endzone.

+----------------+
|6d. When to Fake|
+----------------+

You can call fake field goals and fake punts whenever you wish. The computer is
not stupid, but it doesn't cheat either. If it's conceivable that you would
make a play from a certain distance, they will set up to defend it, whether
you're faking or not. For example, if you select a fake field goal when you're
on your enemy's 20-yard line, they will probably defend against a field goal,
not knowing it's a fake. Of course, if you call a fake field goal from YOUR OWN
20-yard line, they'll know something is up.

Faking isn't that important, and it's certainly not needed if you're in the
lead. Also, if you're more than just a few yards away from getting a first
down, it's too risky to try it. I never call fakes if I'm more than 5 yards
out, and I seldom call fakes unless it's less than 2 to go.

You'll want to take your field position into consideration when you decide to
call a fake. If you're nearer to your own line than the enemy's, you shouldn't
fake. Screwing up would just put the enemy that much closer to getting a score.

Also, remember that your special teams are not supposed to be used on offense.
Your punters and kickers are worthless when it comes to passing, and you
probably won't have your best WRs there either. An effective fake field goal is
the run, in which the guy who's kneeling will take the ball and run to the
right immediately. It's not perfect, and will in fact fail most of the time,
but it's still not a bad option if you need it.

Punters are even worse, although an RB Direct Snap may be the solution. In that
play, the C simply snaps the ball to the runningback, and he tears up the line.
The man there is normally the FB though, and he may not have the speed to get
far enough for a first.

If you're far behind, don't bother faking, just run a normal play on fourth
down. You'll lose any element of surprise that you may have had, but at least
your normal offense is out there making the play instead of crappy kickers and
punters.

I'd say that the best time to fake would be if you're near the opponent's
40-yard line. That's a little too close to punt, and a little too far to kick a
field goal, so a fake punt may actually be a better option.



+-----------------+
|+---------------+|
||7. THE END GAME||
|+---------------+|
+-----------------+

Strategy is more important in the final 5 minutes of each half, and especially
more important in the final two minutes of the game, than in the rest of time.
Games have been won or lost depending on the coaches' decisions and the
players' mistakes during those critical seconds before the final gun.

+--------------------+
|7a. Offense, Leading|
+--------------------+

If you are in the lead, then your mission is to burn time off the clock.
Timeouts only serve to freeze the clock, so don't bother calling any.

Remember that the clock only runs after a play if someone actually had control
of the ball before hand. That means that incomplete passes and runs out of
bounds will freeze the clock and buy the defense a few precious seconds.

In order to milk the clock, only call running plays that go in the opposite
direction of the hash marks, or go right up the middle. For example, if you're
on the left harsh mark, run right. If you're on the right, go left.

After a play is over, quickly select your next play, and just sit there on the
line of scrimmage until the play clock reads 1 second. Defensive offsides
penalties are your best friends, since those will run the clock and reset the
play clock in the process.

If the clock stops for some reason, such as a timeout or the two-minute
warning, just select the next play like normal. Remember, avoid passes unless
it's 3rd down and at least 5 to go. Of course, if you complete the pass, all
the better.

If it's 4th down, don't hesitate to kick. Kick a field goal only if you're SURE
you'll make it. Otherwise, punt as close to the enemy's goal line as you can.

In the special teams formation, you can select the QB Kneel play. In that play,
your QB will immediately take a knee when he gets the ball, resulting in a
2-yard loss, but it moves the clock along.

Here's how you can determine if you should kneel. If the enemy is out of
timeouts, multiply your remaining downs by 40, and compare the solution to the
remaining game time. Here's a little chart...

1st Down: 40s
2nd Down: 80s (1:20)
3rd Down: 120s (2:00)

So, if there's less than two minutes left, and the defense has no timeouts, and
it's first down, you can just kneel to move the clock all the way to 0:00. If
you can't kneel the clock all the way out, just run running plays until you
can.

+--------------------+
|7b. Defense, Leading|
+--------------------+

If you're winning by only 3 points in the 4th quarter, you're hardly out of the
woods. A field goal will send the game into overtime, and a touchdown will put
you down.

Opponents get desperate if they're losing as the clock runs out. They will try
mostly passing plays, and most of those will go medium or deep. Set up Dime and
Quarter defenses, which are designed to stop those range of passes. You need to
do your best to keep the enemy out of field goal range, which again is about to
the 35 yard line. If you fail in that, you need to be on the highest alert to
stop them from getting any farther.

If you're leading by more than 4 points, but less than 7, things get just a
smidge easier. With that difference, the enemy is forced to get a touchdown, so
they can't settle on a field goal. What that means is you simply have to stop
them before getting to the goal line, which you should be doing anyway. Just
remember that they'll go for yardage on their fourth down, and you'll have to
be ready for anything.

If you're up by at least 4 and there's only time for one more play, and the
enemy is a rather large distance away from the goal line, then you need to
invent your own defensive play. Go to Quarter, and pick the play called
Prevent. This sends all eight of the backs deep to prevent any touchdown, but
you can do two better. First, hit Triange, Up to send all your backs back in a
lax coverage. Second, take manual control of a guy and send him ALL THE WAY
BACK before the play comences. Leave him there; he's the absolute last line of
defense when the offense does their play. While this leaves an area or person
open to be hit with a pass, you can immediately rush whoever has the ball to
cream them to the showers. That one guy in the endzone serves as the mopup
crew, ready to floor whatever fool happens to try to score, no matter where on
the field they are.

+---------------------+
|7c. Offense, Trailing|
+---------------------+

Mistakes are bad, very bad. Chucking a ball into the hands of a defender will
seal your coffin, as will a fumble that turns to the guys in the other shirts.

You need to run plays that you're very comfortable with. Deep passes are
preferred, although running the same play over and over will fail eventually,
because the enemy will learn your actions. Running plays are dangerous, but
almost necessary when you get to the enemy's Red Zone.

Pick a play you're comfortable with and run it, issuing a No Huddle command
every time by holding Triangle after the play stops. Running out of bounds will
freeze the clock, so do that as often as you can. Even if you think you can
gain an extra yard or two by running forward, break to the sideline. You NEED
to save every precious second you can.

Call timeouts if you need to, but try not to unless you have no choice. If you
hold Square instead of Triangle after a play, your QB will spike the ball on
the next play, stopping the clock, although it will cost you a down. Still,
that's the only way to freeze the clock if you're out of timeouts.

Defensive penalties are your best friends. THE GAME CANNOT END ON A DEFENSIVE
PENALTY. If you throw the ball, and there's 0:00 on the clock, but the defense
gets called for pass interference, you'll get to run ANOTHER play. Also, you'll
get to run the point-after attempt after you score a touchdown, whether or not
there's time remaining on the clock.

Remember, you need to get your plays off as quickly as possible. The other
advantage to hurrying is that the defense will tire, and they may not even be
in a set position when you snap it. That will give you a slight advantage.

If all else is failing, use a Hail Mary. That play alone has saved my hide
many, many times.

+---------------------+
|7d. Defense, Trailing|
+---------------------+

Hoo boy. This is the worst situation to be in. The offense controls the clock,
and they will do so without mercy. They will only run running plays, so you can
set your defense accordingly. The only time they'll pass is during 3rd down if
they need yardage (although I've seen them pass on 2nd down before to throw me
off).