Wetrix - Strategy Guide (Page 01)

Below are the cheat codes, hints and help for Wetrix - Strategy Guide (Page 01).

Version 1.3
Copyrighted 1999@ to Alexis
>-----------<***()***()***()Wetrix()***()***()***>------------<


Updates:
>--------------------<
Version 1.3
-Updated Secrets
-Tips for attaining ratings
-The Ultimate (So far) Scoring Strategy
 -Check out the Table of contents. This is a huge faq! 

Drop your jaw in awe.  (Whoa! I'm a poet and I didn't know it! I make a 
rhyme every time! Ack!!)

Version 1.2
-Added a whole bunch of overviews for every playing mode.
-Added a few.... 'Secrets' (potentially!!)
-Added a few tips
-Added some player strategies (With it's own section! :)
-Fixed spacing... AGAIN :)

Version 1.1
-Added a few tips in the tips section
-Alot of spacing mistakes fixed. Don't use tab! :)
-Added some general additions to the other sections.

This is my first faq for a video game, so I'm doing my best. I'm making 
it as concise as possible, and will try to update often. I am writing 
this as I play it, so if you miss a secret in here, or something else 
that you've seen, and I haven't added it yet, I probably haven't found 
it yet.

Index:
	Legal Cra* (If it offendes anyone..)		
	Pretense: Objective(s) of game.
	1) Controls
	2) Playing the game
                  -Playing modes
                  -Pieces
                  -Objects
                  -Scoring/Playing
	3) Tips
                  -Strategies
                  -Attaining your ratings
                  -Player Strategies
                  -The Ultimate Earth Strategy
	4) Secrets
                    -Extra Pieces
                    -Wetrix Waves
                    -Extra Floors
                    	
                 5) Contact\Thanks


Ok this is my Legal Cra*. First off, this faq is copyrighted, and the 
Logo and names of Zedtwo, Ocean, and Wetrix, are also copyrighted. As 
for this faq, don't sell, lease, barter, or distribute to anyone, or put 
it on your site
without my written permission. The end.

If you want my faq on your site... let me know first. It'll most likely 
be a 'yes', but tell me FIRST!
>--------------------<


Pretense: Objective(s) of the game
>--------------------<
Playing the game
>--------------------<
This game may remind of tetris if you look at the box. Pieces fall 
down, and you position them around the playing field. The object for 
most of the game, is to create a barrier, or a dam to surround the 
playing field. You get many different types of pieces, which you much 
place to recieve another one. If you don't put it down, it will fall by 
itself. There are 'Uppers', 'Downers', 'Water drops', and miscellaneous 
pieces. Refer to 'Gameplay' to see details. 

Use the uppers to create the dam, and the downers to make sure it 
doesn't get too big, so that you cause an earthquake! Then you will be 
forced to play water drops within your dam, and make sure you spill as 
little as possible! (Hence the name, 'Wetrix'. Water..tetris..Wetrix) 
Every drop spilled off the playing field will go into your 'Drain'. 
When the drain fills up, you lose! It SOUNDS easy, but with fast 
falling blocks, bombs, a few disasters, and you'll be so intent on 
playing, you'll probably forget to blink.

Part 1:
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Controls of the Game
>--------------------<>--------------------<

Really, there are not many controls you need to master. This is what 
the *Default* settings are:

A button:

On the main screens, it selects your choice. In any other game mode, it 
will drop your piece straight down. (except for a few practice modes) 
This is much like the 'Down' button for tetris.

B button:
This rotates the piece selected, if it can be rotated. It will always 
be turned Counter-Clockwise. On the main screens, it takes you back to 
the previous menu.

Z button:
Several functions for this button. In any solo mode, this will use one 
of your *Smart Bombs* (if you have any, look up gameplay for how to get 
them). If you are in mutiplayer, it will set off whatever attack you 
are at.

R button: This will change your zoom, from far, normal, and zoomed up. 
I don't see any usual use for the zoomed up one, as you can only see 
small portion of the whole field at once, although it may be useful to 
identify how high a section may be to another.

C buttons: They each will change your camera angle. The Up and Down C 
buttons, will tilt the whole playing field to a top-down view, or a 
side view respectively. The left and right C buttons will turn the 
playing field counterclockwise, and clockwise, respectively.

L button: No use

Control Pad: Same thing as the analog stick, but is much more stable 
when playing the game because you can move the blocks slowly in one 
square increments, whereas you must move the analog stick VERRRY 
CAREFULLY and SLOWWWLY to achieve the same effect. Also used to select 
menus on the main screen.

Analog stick: Probably most often used, even if not the best control 
style. This moves the pieces around, and allows you to select menus on 
the main screen.

Part 2:
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Gameplay:
>--------------------<>--------------------<

>--------------------<
The Gamescreen
>--------------------<
The screen mainly looks like this. This is the DEFAULT. There are modes 
where they will be different, but this is in general:

In the top left corner of the screen, is your score counter. As far as 
I know, there isn't an reachable limit for this. It goes up whenever 
you use the 'A' button to place a block down, evaporate water, or 
repair a hole. Your score cannot go down, only up.

In the upper right hand, you will see the level number you are at, and 
the number of lakes you have. The level is the speed at which the 
blocks fall down, and the amount your points are multiplied by. The 
lakes are the number of individual containers of water you have. Your 
score is also multiplied by each one you have. Two lakes is a double 
multipliy, three is a triple, etc.

Next to the level and lake indicator, is a small clock. It ticks 
slowly, or sometimes faster depending on the number of pieces on the 
board. Whenever it gets close to where it started, you will hear a 
small siren warning you. When it reaches the end, it resets, and you 
move on to the next higher level. If you have 'Five (5)' active lakes 
when this happens, you will recieve a 'Smart Bomb'

Below this to the right, is the water drain. All leaked water will fall 
in here, and this tube rises up as you collect water. When it reaches 
the top, you will lose the game.

Underneath the drain, is a small leakage map which shows you where 
water is falling off the screen. Use this as a guide to see where you 
should cover up leaks (more on this later).

Under the leakage radar, is the 'Next piece' indicator. This tells you 
the next type of piece you will recieve. It will either look like an 
'Up' arrow (uppers), a 'Down' arrow (a downer), a sphere of water 
'Water drop', a bomb (a bomb), or fire (fire of course).

Next, to the left of the piece indicator, is the number of smart bombs 
you have. These are earned by having five (5) or more active lakes 
whenever you move on to a higher level. Use the 'Z' button to activate 
any you have. Using them clears you drain, flattens all land on the 
playing field, along with soaking up all water on the field. Very handy 
for starting over. Using it does not affect your score in anyway.

And to the left of that, is the earthquake indicator. It goes up when 
you place uppers, and goes down when you use fire on dry land, a bomb, 
or a downer. If it hits the top... EARTHQUAKE!! (see below)

And of course, the rest is all part of the playing field. The 
background pulsates as you play, and changes color along with the field 
as you change levels.
>--------------------<
If in practice mode, one, or more of these screens may not be present.

In any challenge 'Timed' mode, you will see a large LCD Clock next to 
the level clock reporting time remaining

In any challenge 'Piece limited' you will see a large LCD indicator 
showing the number of pieces you have left

>--------------------<
Playing modes:
>--------------------<
See the playing modes BELOW for details on them all, and what to do.
You have many choices availible! Here they are:

Practice: Go through the lessons, or play practice. The lessons have to 
be completed in order, and deal with everything from building dams to 
making rainbows. You can also choose to have a computer guide you. 
Practice is just like classic mode, except you start with Nine smart 
bombs, and the blocks never fall until you make them. Great for 
practicing, but hard to score well because many of the lake, duck, and 
rainbow bonuses are disabled.

Classic: Well, classic. Pieces fall at a regular rate compared to the 
level, and everything is set to default. Go for points!

Pro: Hey! It's pro! Start on level five, and all bombs are paired as 
doubles, and be ready for some fast falling blocks! Pretty much the 
same as classic otherwise.

Challenge: Try and complete these challenges!!
	1 Minute: You have 1 minute, to play at level 10! Try to survive!
	
	5 Minute: You have 5 minutes, to play at a lower level, usually 
	five. Live through it
        
	100 piece: 100 pieces will come down, so try to use them all!
	
	500 piece: 500 pieces will come down, use as many as you can!
	
	Preset A: Blocks fall in a preset pattern. Pretty much like 
	classic.
	
	Preset B: Just like A, just different pattern, and starts at 
                level five

Handicapped: When you move from one leve to the next, the situation is 
reset!
	
	Raised Land A: Your earthquake meter starts a little higher than 
	empty
	
	Raised Land B: Even higher than raised land A
	
                Ice layer A: Start with a large chunk of ice that will 
melt 
	quickly
	
	Ice Layer B: Same as A, just different layer pattern.
	
	Random Land: Get random land spread all about the field! Careful!
	
	Random Holes: Start with many random holes spread all about the 
	field!
	
	Half-Full drain: Start with half the drain already filled!

Multiplayer: What can I say? It's two player multiplayer! Make big 
lakes and try evaporate it to gain attack power. These are the attacks:

Water: The higher the attack power, the most water droplets will fall 
from the sky, into random points on their land

Ice: The higher the attack power, the more blocks of ice will fall down 
from the sky, freezing the water and messing up some of the land

Earthquake: The higher the attack power, the more powerful the 
earthquake is, just like the one from single-player mode!

Bomb: Devasating bombs fall from the sky into the field! The higher the 
attack, the more bombs!

It starts at water, and moves up to bomb as you evaporate more and 
more. Use the 'Z' button to activate your attack.
>--------------------<                                                     

>--------------------<>--------------------<
Objects:
>--------------------<>--------------------<

Objects within the game:
These are all the objects you will see while playing 'Wetrix'
Well, than again... not yet.... let's go over the playing modes first..
>--------------------<>--------------------<
The playing modes:
>--------------------<>--------------------<

Classic:
Well, classic. This is the general playing mode. You will start on level 
one, and after a while it will start to rain, then ice comes.. mines 
comes.... etc. Classic!

Surviving: See below under strategies, they mostly deal with elements of 
this.
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Pro:
Like classic, except you start on level 5, some water bubble formations 
are different (not much), and you may get a few double-pieces (Double 
bombs attached!)

Surviving: Well, same as the classic survival tactics... but you won't 
need to go after five or six ducks, it's difficult. If you are going 
after points, four ducks is enough. Everything goes pretty much the 
same, but
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Challenge:
1 Minute Challenge: You have one minute to survive. Sounds easy.... but 
you start right out on level ten. Even dropping a single water bubble 
out will cause you to lose...see the ratings in the secret section to 
see how to do well....

Surviving: To survive this, use all your blocks to make a permimeter as 
fast as you can, but unless you're really confident, don't even bother 
using the a button to drop it faster. Then, just evaporate with every 
fireball you get. If there are mines, obviously don't evaporate. Fix all 
leaks as fast as you can, and don't worry about too many extra parts 
sticking out. If you are going for at least an expert rating, you need 
10,000 points. For this, you can either do several hole repair bonuses. 
At level 10, a middle sized hole can be worth up to at least 3,000 
points. Just do a few of these, or make one duck,  and one good 
evaporation with a rainbow will do it.
>--------------------<>--------------------<
5 Minute Challenge: Well...just like one minute challenge....except it 
lasts five minutes... and it starts on level four instead.

Surviving: Well...these time challenges have the same characteristics as 
classic... this starts on level four... so just use the same strategies 
as classic.
>--------------------<>--------------------<
100 piece Challenge: You will drop 100 pieces down...(not really... the 
counter is screwed so it's more like 99), and you start on level 
eight... 

Surviving: I'm running out of things to say. For these types of 
challenges just try to build a few ducks and get as many evaporations as 
you can. If you simply want to get through it for an ok rating, just 
drop 50 pieces. Just make a small dam, and drop then all down as fast as 
you can (careful with bombs!)
>--------------------<>--------------------<
500 piece challenge: Well, like the 100 piece challenge, but you have 
500 pieces. You start on level four.

Surviving: Um...what can I say? Drop 250 pieces for an ok rating, and 
just builds duck dams to the best of your ability. You need 8 million 
points for this one, so it's tricky. With three ducks, you should be 
able to achieve that. Take your time, and don't use the 'a' button 
because the points you get for it are not worth it.
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Preset A: Pieces drop in a preset pattern. Period. JUST LIKE CLASSIC!

Surviving: Um... this is pretty much exactly like classic but the pieces 
come in the same order everytime. Learn about what order they will come 
in, and just do it like classic.
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Preset B: Just like preset a, but different order, and you start on 
level five.

Surviving: Well, not much difference. Just build to the best of your 
ability. Because this, and preset a are long term challenges, you just 
need to stay alive. Same strategies as classic.
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Handicap: These aren't 'Good' handicaps toward you. These all make the 
game harder (in my opinion at least)

For all of these, just get to level 10 and you will be crowned Expert.

Ice layer A: A large circular layer of ice starts the game. It will melt 
after about 20 seconds, so build around it. If you contained all the 
ice, you'll have a rainbow. When you reach the next level, all the water 
you have in your playing field will freeze again.

Surviving: First, there is no much to fear. You start on level one, so 
just make ducks and rainbows like classic. Don't fear the freeze-over at 
level-ups, just let it melt.
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Ice layer B: A mid-sized circular, two layer ice stack starts the game. 
It melts after about 20 seconds, so just like ice layer A.

Suviving: Just like ice layer A, but you start with more water. Also 
freezes at level up.
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Raised land A:You start with some extra land in the earthquake 
meter....otherwise like classic.

Surviving: Well, to be honest, it's just like classic, just be more 
conservative with your blocks. I don't see what happens at level up 
though....
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Rasied land B: Alot more land starting that Raised land A

Surviving: Be even more conservative! You will not be able to build too 
many ducks dams, so be careful and just survive to level 10.
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Random Land: You start the game with random land, with hills and 
reccessions everywhere. Just work on that perimiter, and just drop those 
downers wherever to lower the land down. At level up, expect a smart 
bomb-like blow-up with raised land once more.

Surviving: What can I say? I think I said it all in the description. 
Just be sure you have cleared as much as you can before you build ducks, 
but don't build too many because they will all dissapear at level up 
anyway.
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Random Holes: You start the game with holes everywhere.

Suviving: Plug those holes!! Keep in mind uppers only have to be close 
to holes to plug them up, and if you fix one part, you fix it all. You 
should be able to fix all the holes within three uppers, then just build 
that perimiter. Watch out at level-up when you have to do it agin
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Half-full Drain: You start the game with the water drain half filled.

Surviving: Just like classic pretty much. Just be very careful. A few 
good evaporations will bring down the drain and you won't have to worry 
about it, until level-up again at least...
>--------------------<>--------------------<
Multiplayer: Two player!

Well, no true survival tactics.. just strategies. First of all, forget 
making lakes, all donut shapes should be downed into the large lake. Use 
every downer carefully, and move as fast as you can. Don't evaporate 
until the water is all the way at it's limit. You won't need to make 
double or triple layers, one is enough. If you let it get to the very 
top then you evaporate it, you will shoot straight into the bomb attack. 
If you have a bomb coming, use it in the corner, and ONLY if you have a 
SQUARE downer, then use it in the hole, then cover it up and you will 
down a large chunk of your opponent's attack power! 

About the attacks, really the only one that does an real damage is the 
bomb attack. I may have said the others do to, the the only one that 
will make life significantly harder for the opponent in the bomb attack. 
Also, don't bother using the bomb until it is fully charged. Having a 
single bomb fall down on your opponent really isn't going to do much, 
especially if they have an upper handy. At full charge, up to seven 
bombs will fall. That'll hurt. If you are lucky, you can wait until they 
have dropped a bomb down, THEN attack and if you're lucky, one of your 
bombs will fall into their hole and trigger another rebomb.. and if they 
are still alive... possibly another re-bomb.. (Very unlikely though!)

The Earthquake attack will really only carve down the out perimeter, but 
chances are if they don't have a HUGE lake, they will not lose, and a 
few uppers will fix all the damage made. Even a strong charged up 
earthquake isn't much use. 

Ice is really only handy if they have a whole bunch of water and they 
are going to evaporate it, then you can delay them for some time. One 
really good move is to have an ice attack ready, then fill up your lake, 
enough so you will get a bomb on the next evaporation. Then right before 
you evaporate, use the ice attack, then when you get the bomb, use that 
too. That will not only freeze the water so they can't evaporate it, you 
can stick bombs into the ice, so if they don't fix it fast enough, when 
the ice melts all the bombs will explode.

Water? HAH! This is useless! Even a fully charged attack will only HELP 
them, because only some of the drops will actually fall outside, and the 
rest add to their water supply. The only time in which is may be of use 
to you, is when they have a huge lake that is at it's limit, or when 
they have an imcomplete perimeter (IE you were very fast in getting it). 

So just work really fast and you won't have much to worry about, unless 
they read this guide too of course... remember, if you don't have much 
of a lake to evaporate, expand a large hole, then cover it up and down a 
large chunk of your opponent's energy, enough to give you extra time.
Whew!
>--------------------<>--------------------<


>--------------------<>--------------------<
NOW The Pieces:
>--------------------<>--------------------<
'Upper' Pieces:
These are pieces that fall from the sky, and look like blocks formed 
out of red arrows pointing up. When they hit the field, they raise 
whatever land they touch by one unit. There is a limit of course, of 
six units. If you have too many uppers on the field, you will cause an 
earthquake (more on that later). In the default set, there are four 
'Upper' pieces.

Straight piece: A simple straight piece. Stretchs a few squares long. 

'T' piece: A piece that looks like the letter 'T'. Can be annoying to 
place, but it handy for splitting large lakes.

'L' piece: A piece that looks like the letter 'L', but is the same 
length for both ends. A very handy piece for covering the corners of 
the field, and 'capping' off a whole in a dam. Combine the ends of two 
of these and you'll have a large ring piece.

Ring piece: 
Looks like a square ring with a single square whole in the center. 
Great for making singe lakes.
>--------------------<>--------------------<>--------------------<>----

'Downer' Pieces:
	Again, pieces which fall from the sky, and look like blocks formed 
out 
of green arrows pointing down. Many good uses for what seems like a bad 
piece. This is mainly used to control uppers, making sure they don't 
get too piled up and cause an earthquake. Downers are like 'Equalizers' 
because they will lower whatever land it touches to the lowest point
it touches. 
	Another major use is for 'shaping' your dam just right, as they 
can 
trim off unneccsary uppers that may be sticking out. The more space you 
have, the more space you have for water and you can hold more!

Only two default downer pieces:

Straight piece: Same size as the straight upper piece.

Square piece: A small square, useful for holing out a large mound for a 
lake.
>--------------------<>--------------------<>--------------------<>----

'Water drop' pieces:
This is what makes the game. They come in many sizes, and you want to 
contain them within your playing field. When they hit the ground, they 
spread out depending on their size. There are many things you can do 
with these, just make sure they don't fall off the field. When they do, 
it adds to the 'drain' and when the drain fills up, you lose!

'Fire' pieces. 
A VERY handy piece, and will aid in your largest high scores. This 
evaporates all the water in a lake it touches, and if placed on dry 
land, it flattens a 2x2 square around it down to the ground and slopes 
the nearby land. Handy if you need to lower land

'Bomb' pieces.
This can be both the most annoying piece, and the most helpful (in a 
case). It's bad, because whatver ground it hits, it will not only 
flatten ANY size hillt to the ground like fire does, it puts a hole in 
the playing field! It affects a 2x2 square, and the whole is very 
vulnerable. Water easily flows through it as if it were the edge of a 
board, and can cost you alot of leakage. However it is easily repaired, 
just put a upper near it or on top of it to repair the hole. You can't 
get 'deep' holes, just a hole. They are good for blasting away large 
mounds that have been piled up on the edge of the board though, and can 
keep your earthquake meter down.

>--------------------<
Gameplay Action:
>--------------------<

>--------------------<
Bad things: 
>--------------------<
You have no control over these when they fall, and are random (to a 
point)

Rain:
As you progress through the game, it will begin to rain. Although each 
tiny drop is much less than a water droplett, it can add up. You will 
often see your leak radar reporting leaks. These are usually places 
where rain water is falling off the board. The amount is usually so 
tiny it's not much of a problem, but if you have several you may want 
to patch one up (just make the dam there higher). Sometimes you may get 
a bit of a 'rainstorm' where it will rain heavier than it normally 
does, then it will stop for a while, then come back. Always be ready!

Ice cubes: 
These fall at random parts of the game, always after the second level 
that a game starts at. They freeze all water that touches it, and when 
water is frozen, it acts differently. First of all, it won't move, so 
you will stop leaking if any water from it was leaking. Second, if you 
place a downer into ice, you will destroy it and it will dissappear 
forever. Third, if you drop water onto ice, it will freeze too, just 
don't stack it too high! Eventually, it will melt and it all comes back 
to water. However, if water hits dry land (either place an upper under 
where it will fall, or evaporate the water before the ice touches it), 
you will recieve a nice 'Dry Ice' bonus. Usually not worth getting, but 
it's figured out at      

Levelnumberx250

So if you are at a high level, such as ten, you get a nice 2,500 points 
per dry ice, and it can add up if you have a rainbow!

Re-Bomb:
NASTY THINGS!! If you drop a bomb into a hole generated by another 
bomb, you will trigger a re-bomb! Three bombs will fall out of the sky 
at random points. They act like normal bombs, and will usually cause 
you to have severe leaking problems if you have a large lake. If you 
survive it, fix the holes fast!! And worse yet, if one of the re-bomb 
bomb falls into another hole, you will get ANOTHER re-bomb! You can see 
how serious it can get! If you have a large lake and you are at a high 
level, you better use a Smart bomb if you have one, or you are GONE.

Mines:
Like Ice, they fall out of the sky at random times, but usually after 
the fourth level of what you start at. They will usually hit water, and 
float there until they dissapear. Or, if they fall on dry land, or you 
stick an upper below it before it lands, it will dissapear even faster. 
If you try to evaporate water that is occupied by mine(s), you will 
evaporate a small amount and the mine will explode like a bomb, and 
place a large hole whereever it was. Will definitly cause major 
drainage into your drain if it landed in a large lake. Put an upper on 
top of a mine to make it go away faster.

Earthquakes:
Very bad! Everytime you place an upper, the earthquake meter goes up, 
from a green to a red color. When it hits the top, you get an 
earthquake and the entire field shakes, and you will lose a large 
random portion of your land, usually the outside area. You will never 
get a hole from an earthquake. Try to avoid these as much as possible 
by using downers, bombs, and fire efficiently. A good way is to dump 
all unused uppers in one corner, and bomb it all when you get one, then 
use the next upper to repair the hole and do it again! 

>--------------------<
Good things:
>--------------------<
Rubber Duckies:
These appear in deep lakes, 'Deep' meaning lakes two or more units deep 
(or in a hill two units high). There is no true limit to the limit of 
the number of ducks you can have, but you can only one one per lake. 
Each one adds a x2 to your score, so your first one mutiplies all score 
by two, a second will multiply by four, a third by six, a fouth by 
eight, etc. Combine them with rainbows for super high scores! You 
cannot get rubber duckies in practice mode.

Rainbows:
Ok, here is something I may be wrong at: I believe you can only have 
one rainbow at a time (correct me if I'm wrong). When you have placed a 
large amount of water down, including water your ducks are occupying, a 
rainbow will form. They multiply all score by TEN (10) and will stay 
that way until you evaporate the water, or it leaks out. Combine them 
with ducks, for great scores! If you have three ducks, and one rainbow, 
all score is multiplied by 60! (You cannot get rainbows in practice 
mode)
(2x2x2x10)
Duck/Duck/Duck/Rainbow

>--------------------<>--------------------<>--------------------<>----


Scoring:
>--------------------<
Scoring can get complicated. Here is a general list first:

Placing a block down as soon as it appears: 	8xlevel
Placing a block down halfway: 		    	4xlevel
Placing a block down moments before it hits:	1xlevel

Evaporating water: 
Obviously, this number will be higher according to the amount of water 
you evaporate at once. The deeper and wider the lake is, the more 
you'll get. It is also multiplied by the number of ducks, rainbows, 
lakes, and level you are on. See how you get points:

Evaporate water:
500 points for the initial evaporation (Mid sized lake)
Two lakes:
Level two:

500x2x2=2000 points!!

Now see what you get with ducks and rainbows!
500 points for initial evaporation:
Five Lakes
Four Ducks
One Rainbow
Level Seven

500x5x2x2x2x2x10x7=
2500x8x70=
2500x256=640000!

That's alot of points for one evaporation! Compare that to the above!

Fixing holes:
These vary on your level, and multiply by the level you are at, usually 
25, or 50 times level number. You can get more points by fixing 
multiple, or large holes at once. They are also multiplied by ducks, 
rainbow(s), and lakes. 

Dry Ice bonus:
Gotten when dry ice is placed on dry land, or when fire and ice hit the 
same place at the same time. It is usually 
250xlevelnumberxducks/rainbows. Usually not a great source of points, 
but if you are at a high level, with lots of ducks, a deep lake and a 
rainbow, try and place uppers right below where the ice will land (if 
you can) and you can easily get several tens of thousands of points for 
each one done.
>--------------------<

Part three:
>--------------------<
Tips
>--------------------<
-First off, a good point grabber is to put all ring-uppers on one side 
of the field. You should be able to squeeze in four into one size, 
(you'll have to overlap one or two). Then just line the rest of the 
field up with other blocks. You may start getting water before you 
finish. Just put it into the corner, and try and build up fast, or hope 
you get fire. If you start flooding too much, start over. Then you can 
start working on a second layer on top of the blocks. You can also use 
the 'l' shaped blocks, just try not to overstack, because two layers is 
all you need. Then fill them up with water drops. Now you can dump the 
rest of the water in the rest of the large pool. Put all excess blocks 
in one corner, and bomb it when you get one, and you can just quickly 
fix it with the next upper. You should be very successful with this, as 
it keeps your earthquake meter low. Just try to work fast as the points 
really build up in higher levels! If you get mines, just use any fire 
like a bomb on the hill. If you get ice, you can go for a dry ice 
bonus, otherwise try and just wait.
>--------------------<
-In multiplayer, make as deep and wide of a lake as you can! Forget 
about even TRYING to make ducks, as you can't, and wouldn't have a need 
for them. One layer of water filling the whole land, evaporated, will 
send your attack meter up to a weak earthquake!!
>--------------------<
-Do alot of practice, in practice. You get smart bombs, so it's almost 
impossible to lose if you watch your drain. After that, go for classic!
>--------------------<
-Submit your high scores to Zedtwo, for the world to see! Check out
and check out the high scores table. There, you can enter in all the 
information. If it's a world record, you may get into the hall of fame!
>--------------------<
-Ever wonder what the 'Score Verification Code' is? (Under top scores, 
in 'options) They are for making sure you don't send in fake scores to 
the official site! You will be asked to enter the code for the score 
you are sending in, and it will check if it's valid. Good move!
>--------------------<
-Score scoring strategies:

Method 1: Build five seperate lakes using the ring-uppers. Just stack 
them on top of each other. It is a good idea to try to fit four of them 
in one side. Then, as they come, use the square downers right in the 
center of them. This will thin out the walls of the lakes, but not 
enough that they will leak. Then just surround the rest with other 
pieces, and when it is all surrounded just dump all other pieces in one 
corner. If you were careful in doing this, you should be just below the 
'halfpoint' on the earthquake meter. If not, flatten any parts that are 
sticking out from the perimeter, and make sure you have 'squared out' 
the center of as many of the ringed lakes as you can. Then countinue 
and add a second layer to the perimiter of the lake (except for the 
rings, they should already have two layers). Then as they come, use the 
downers to thin out the perimeter as much as possible. Just line up the 
downer right against the wall, then use the control PAD to move it one 
square over (opposite the direction the wall is against) and you should 
be able to thin out the wall. This will not only help you keep your 
earthquake meter lower, but allow you to contain more water, allowing 
larger evaporations. There! You're set. You should have been able to 
complete this before halfway through level two (in classic). From now 
on, just drop all water into the main lake, and evaporate it when fire 
comes. Just make sure you've already added water to the other lakes so 
that rubber duckies appear. If you want to add another lake, if it is 
thinned out and filled, you will have a permenant rainbow and points 
will be easy to come. Just dump all other blocks in one corner and bomb 
it. In later levels when ice and mines come, try to avoid evaporating 
it if it happens, just try to wait it out and hope for another fireball 
later.